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2023 Michele Chiarlo "Cipressi" Nizza

2023 Michele Chiarlo "Cipressi" Nizza

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91

Vinous

Reviewed September 2025
The 2023 Nizza Cipressi is packed with crème de cassis, blackberry jam, licorice, cloves and menthol. This overt, flamboyant Barbera packs a serious punch. Plush contours wrap around the heady, substantial finish. (AG)

Staff Reviews

OC
Orazio Campoli

Orazio Campoli

K&L Buyer
Review Date: 07/2026
If there is one producer responsible for transforming Barbera from a simple, rustic "farmer's wine" into a world-class, cellar-worthy masterpiece, it is Michele Chiarlo. He is a titan of Piedmontese viticulture, and his visionary work in the Asti region fundamentally changed the landscape of Italian wine. The "Cipressi" bottling is a profound testament to that legacy, hailing from the magnificent Tenuta La Court estate in Castelnuovo Calcea. More importantly, this wine comes from the heart of the Nizza DOCG. For years, this small, sun-drenched enclave was just a sub-zone of Barbera d'Asti, but its terroir is so exceptional that it was recently elevated to its own independent appellation—effectively becoming the "Grand Cru" zone for the Barbera grape. The secret to Nizza lies in the Astian sands: a unique geological mix of calcareous marl and magnesium-rich sand. This well-draining soil stresses the vines just enough to produce low yields of incredibly concentrated, aromatic fruit. Because Barbera naturally possesses high acidity and very low tannin, the sandy Nizza terroir amplifies its elegance rather than adding heavy weight. The 2024 Cipressi pours a brilliant, glowing ruby. The nose is an intoxicating, pure expression of ripe red cherry, wild raspberry, and a delicate dusting of sweet spice. On the palate, it is electric, savory, and wonderfully silky, avoiding heavy oak in favor of terroir-driven freshness. It is a brilliant, sophisticated red that pairs flawlessly with traditional agnolotti pasta, mushroom risotto, or roasted pork.

Notes

Cipressi is Michele Chiarlo’s Barbera from vineyards between Castelnuovo Calcea and Mombercelli in the Nizza area. The name comes from the cypress trees on the hill of La Court, which also inspired artist Giancarlo Ferraris’s label imagery. The vineyards sit on marine sedimentary soils, with clay and limestone marl alongside sand and silt. For the 2023, fermentation took place in stainless steel with gentle maceration, followed by a year in large oak casks and further time in bottle. That choice of large wood is central to Chiarlo’s approach to Cipressi. The producer recommends the wine with meat-sauce pasta, risotto, cured meats or medium-aged goat cheese.

Details

TypeRed Wine
VarietalBarbera
OriginPiedmont, Italy
Bottle Size750 mL
SKU2022150