2022 Château de Montfaucon "Vin de Mme la Comtesse" Clairette Lirac Blanc

Montfaucon always holds this white back for a few years before release, and it is a wine built around nuance rather than sheer intensity. Made from nearly 100% Clairette, it comes from a parcel of centenarian vines that look almost like alien creatures trying to escape the confines of the earth. A handful of old heirloom varieties are co-planted among them, keeping the wine from being entirely Clairette. But what you are really tasting here is a very old parcel, handled with little intrusion. Aged primarily in large neutral barrels, the wine continues to develop in the glass. It starts with dried nectarine before moving toward persimmon, with a touch of spice and a creamy texture that gives the wine remarkable presence. This is not a wine you rush through. It commands your attention and would be right at home with a potato and leek soup or some creamy, funky cheeses. I've had bottles with even more age on them, and they only become more intriguing. I think of this wine as a poem. It may not make perfect sense upon first glance, but the more time you spend with it, the more compelling it becomes.