2025 Château de Montfaucon Lirac Rosé

The genesis of this wine has been great to watch. Originally, it was created as an homage to Tavel, the neighboring appellation famous for its rosé wines. It even came in the long, skinny bottle emblematic of the region. The wine was bright and crisp, with a lighter hue and a more traditional rosé profile. Over the last few years, vigneron Rudi de Pins has taken it in a very different direction, making it denser, richer and more vinous. It is now an almost brooding rosé that feels closer to historical Tavel, when the wines were more akin to light reds. Rudi even changed the bottle to reflect what he believes is a more serious style of rosé. It is now opaque, concealing that deeper color from prying eyes. Once poured, though, there is no hiding it. The color is more like freshly squeezed raspberries, with an almost purple rim. And the wine is exceptional. I have tasted every vintage since Rudi began making it and have even tried a few with several years of bottle age. They only get more compelling. This is winter rosé—or light red, depending on how you want to look at it. Just don't serve it too cold. You don't want to mask all that depth of flavor hiding behind the smoky glass. It is terrific now with roasted fowl—think braised turkey legs or grilled duck—but this is also a rosé worth putting a few bottles away for a couple of years. I think it's only going to get better.