2023 ArPePe Rosso di Valtellina (Nebbiolo)

ArPePe’s Rosso spends 110 days on its skins — longer than most Barolo — then six to twelve months in big untoasted casks. That is what the most traditional cellar in Valtellina does to its youngest wine, from 50-to-100-year-old vines on the lower terraces of Sassella and Grumello. In the glass, it pours a translucent, luminous ruby. The nose is pure alpine Nebbiolo: wild strawberry and sour cherry, dried rose, alpine herbs and a cool thread of wet granite. On the palate, it is light-to-medium-bodied, pliant and supple, with fine, grainy tannins, the acidity of altitude and a long, salty finish. Vinous called it a terrific introduction to the range, and I agree. Pizzoccheri, bresaola, a Tuesday roast chicken; drink over the next five years. $52.99.