The fabulous and still underrated Barton Distillery suffers somewhat in the shadow of its much bigger sibling in Frankfort. This lovely little distillery, tucked into a holler on a residential street in Bardstown, is one of the most endearing. It quietly chugs along, often overlooked, but when you taste a truly great barrel you’re forced to reconsider. Maybe it’s the awkward branding - the 1792 Bourbon label has always been a tough one for many people to connect with - or the distinctly un-bourbon cognac-style decanter. Whatever the reason, the cult of Barton is small. Needless to say, I’m a proud member, and it’s a place that has grown on me through years of visiting. Maybe the bourbon is simply getting better. There’s no question this is another excellent example of the remarkable potential of this old distillery.
Alongside the sister cask bottled at 100 proof, this full proof offering at 125 proof forms one half of a duo I consider among the best side-by-side comparisons in the store. Two barrels that were nearly identical straight from the barrel emerge as striking contrasts once bottled at different proofs. Let’s give the full proof a whirl. The color is a deep crimson-russet (1.3), several shades darker than its sibling. The nose is dense and brooding, packed with pungent oak, earthy warehouse floor, dark fruits, and powerful baking spice. It’s tighter and more closed than the Bottled-in-Bond, preferring time in the glass to reveal itself - more contemplative and less communicative, but ultimately louder when allowed the floor. With air, the complexity soars, unfolding exotic woods like mahogany, sandalwood, and birch, dense dark fruit -dried plums and figs- and wild savory notes of hazelnut, bay leaf, and medium-roast Huehuetenango coffee -chocolate, caramel, maple, burnt orange peel.
On the palate, it’s exceptionally juicy - huge cherry syrup and sarsaparilla explode up front. It’s earthy yet lifted, with dried peppermint, chocolate, and more cherries carrying through. This is a powerful bourbon, but the juicy entry disguises its true depth at first. Ultimately it reveals itself to be a stunning barrel, especially when compared to the vast quantities of unnamed single-barrel Barton on the market of similar age that are half as good and twice the price. This one should not be ignored.
