1996 Caves São João "Quinta do Poço do Lobo" Tinto Reserva Bairrada

The 1996 Reserva Quinta do Poço do Lobo is unoaked and comes in 13% alcohol. It has been seen before, when it seemed very fresh. It is mostly Baga (50%), with about 25% each of Moreto and Castelão (a dramatic change from the last stats I was given). This bottle is still impressive. It is very lush for a Baga-dominated blend, but the Baga provides typical earthiness and amber while the other grapes in the blend add a little flavor. Enlivening, its big acidity results in a juicy finish. Then, the tannins take over. The structure is somewhat better than the concentration, but there's enough. This is in many respects still a baby, if a rather rustic one. It will easily last another 15 to 20 years. (MS)