2019 Domaine Servin Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos"

Notes of pear, citrus zest, vanilla pod and toasted almonds introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos, a full-bodied, layered and multidimensional wine that's rich and concentrated, with chalky structuring extract, lively acids and a long, expansive finish. This is a superb effort that is the most Côte de Beaune-styled of Servin's wines this year. As I've written before, 30-hectare Domaine Servin, ably directed by François Servin and Australian-born winemaker Marc Cameron, continues to number among Chablis's addresses that are more under the radar. An emphasis on massale selections of Chardonnay, long élevage on the lees and an enviable palate of appellations are three of many reasons why these wines deserve to be taken seriously. The 2019 vintage here has turned out very well indeed, though two cuvées—the Bougros and the normally reference-point Butteaux—were a bit heavy-handedly oaky this year. This is a concentrated, serious vintage that retains a classically Chablisien profile despite the warmth of the vintage, and it's built to age with grace. (WK)