2015 Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Kabinett Mosel

Lily-of-the-valley and geranium combine with yeastiness from spontaneous fermentation for a penetrating aromatic display. Apple, lime and grapefruit, all also intimated on the nose, burst exuberantly onto a glycerol-rich but buoyant palate with juicy, crisp-edged, zesty force. There is a slight sense of sweet-sour tension here, and despite 9 percent alcohol, relatively high for a residually sweet Kabinett, there are still 57 grams of residual sugar and the sweetness is quite prominent. A cheek-tugging, tongue-tingling, palate-staining finish invigorates and refreshes. This should cellar impressively. (DS)