2015 Clemens Busch Riesling Trocken (Dry) Mosel (Biodynamic)

A faintly yeasty aromatic overlay is entirely pleasant. Fresh lime and grapefruit are pungently scented, brightly juicy, and tinged with mouthwatering salinity on a tangy, animating finish. There is an impressive sense of sheer stuffing here – reinforced by Busch’s usual long lees exposure and late bottling – that in no way inhibits refreshment. Yet at just 10.5 percent alcohol, the wine is delightfully buoyant, and unusually so for a legally trocken bottling. This was picked soon after the September rains let up, and Rita Busch suggested that its alcoholic levity is probably partly due to beneficial dilution. All I can say is, you can’t ask for much more fun from an “intro-level” dry Riesling! (DS)