1999 La Gaffelière, St-Emilion

The 1999 is an elegant, finesse-styled, medium-bodied effort revealing lovely strawberry and currant fruit with a hint of sour cherries, a judicious touch of oak, medium body, and excellent purity. It creeps up on the taster in subtle increments. I always laugh when critics of Michel Rolland, the great international oenologist who has done so much to improve wine quality throughout the world, say that his wines all taste the same. Do these ignorant observers realize he is the consultant for this stylish, restrained St.-Emilion? (RP)