2014 Tatomer "Meeresboden" Santa Barbara County Grüner Veltliner

The 2014 Grüner Veltliner Meersboden is quite a bit more focused than the Paragon. Lemon peel, white flowers and crushed rocks are all very nicely delineated. The flavors are bright, focused and chiseled throughout. With air, the Meersboden takes on greater volume and intensity, which only adds to its appeal. John Sebastiano and Kick On are the fruit sources. The 2014 was aged mostly in stainless steel, with 15% acacia barrels. This is impressive juice. These might be the very finest wines I have tasted from Graham Tatomer. Although Tatomer has made his name with German/Austrian varieties, his first Pinot Noir is every bit as good. Then again, Tatomer spent several years making his wines at Brewer-Clifton, which is where I first met him a few years back. The top selections in this range are superb, but the entire range is strong this year. (AG)