2001 Lafaurie-Peyraguey, Sauternes (375ml)

From a 75cl format, this displays a deeply pigmented orange gold hue in the glass, clearly declaring a rich and intense concentration, but with none of the burnished development some of its peers show at this stage. Is this related to the format, I wonder? The nose is just a delight, a melange of vanilla caramel, toasted almonds, black tea leaves and grilled orange, and this is followed by a convincingly viscous start to the palate, immediately dense and richly composed. There are layers of vanilla crème caramel, apricot and bright blood orange, all backed up by a rich sweetness, plenty of firm and bitter grip, and attractive acidity. This is a brilliant package, composed, polished and dense, with deliciously bitter botrytis edges to the sweet fruit. It finishes bold, modestly high-toned and long, with shimmering grain and grip. Absolutely delicious. Drink or hold.