2021 Ridge Vineyards "Geyserville" Alexander Valley Zinfandel

When Geyserville hits in a great vintage, it takes me back to what I originally loved about California wine. Or to that sense of optimism on a spring day when I first visited San Francisco in 1984, to pitch this magazine on publishing services. I didn’t know at the time that I would still be publishing it 40 years later, and I didn’t know how much California wine would change. Or how little the style and intention of Geyserville would change. The team at Ridge manages the vineyard’s generations of vines to produce complex wines like this perfectly ripe 2021, with its dark, resinous scents of marijuana, its deep layers of rich fruit and the fruitiness of detailed tannins. The fresh, herbal complexity is pretty epic and the richness doesn’t stop. What I want from California. (JG)