Hautes Glaces Single Cask #79 Macvin Barrel Aged Organic French Single Malt Whisky

$69.99

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Whisky Advocate

Reviewed November 2018

Explore the layers of this malted rye. It is herbaceous and minerally throughout, with aromas of licorice, chamomile, ginger, tarragon, incense, cooked pears, bread dough, cinnamon, and soil. The flavors express grain, minerals, and earth—tarragon, licorice, peppercorn, roasted peaches, walnut shells, and assertive but not overpowering oak. This young whisky’s flavors are from the field, fermenter, and still, not the barrel. Unique, complex, and exciting. (SSB)

Staff Reviews

David Othenin-Girard

K&L Buyer

Not sure what the odds are, but we managed to put together deals on France's top two single malts within a two-week time span. The two whiskies couldn't be more different, and Hautes Glaces represents the best of the new-school craft distillers in France. What we have here is truly whisky unique to this place, unlike the Kornog, which would have easily been at home among its Celtic brothers to the north. First, this is listed as Single Malt, but it's actually distilled from 100% hand-malted rye grown on the estate. The estate, nestled in the foothills of the Alps, is about as picturesque as can be, and they've done an incredible job building out the facility. The extremely time-consuming process of growing and malting organic grain isn't the end of the fun. Natural fermentation before distillation on what look like modified cognac stills results in a pungent base spirit that is perfectly suited for aging in an unusual barrel like Macvin. Let's have a taste. The color is yellow gold. The nose is filled with the usual aromas of fresh malt, candied apple, yellow flowers, plasticine, and white pepper. On the palate, a surprising bit of char, near smokiness, is a welcome and huge departure from the fresh floral aromas on the nose. I'm not sure if there's a peat element in the drying process or if this is the rye spice rearing its head. The wood certainly takes a back seat, but you do get some of the mineral quality associated with the great wines of Jura. We'll never know if that's from the barrel's influence or the chiseled character of the spirit. It's pretty rich and rather long. With water, more high-toned citrus fruit, mint, and pepper on the nose. The palate becomes much sweeter, and the darkness relents somewhat. In any case, this is definitely something for the adventurous Malt lover rather than the American whisky drinker, but it drinks like a dream and at this price is almost impossible to ignore. The new owners haven't offered us any whisky from the distillery, so it might be some time before we see another offering, but if they can keep them coming in this range, we'll be happy to have them.

Notes

This is an exceptional distillery outside the tiny hamlet of Saint Jean d'Herans, south of Grenobles, high in the Alps. The ancient estate was purchased and refurbished by Frederic Revol, who considers himself an agronomist, with the vision of creating a true single estate organic whisky. The fertile soils here allow Revol to grow a multitude of heirloom grains without the use of chemicals or artificial fertilizers. Over the 40 hectare domaine there exists five distinct climate zones. This single cask of malt whisky was distilled from 100% rye grain that was grown, malted, fermented, mashed and distilled entirely onsite in the climate zone referred to as Gabert. Distilled in 2011 on the domaine's wood-fired alembic pot stills it was filled into a nearly century-old Macvin du Jura barrel for close to 5 years. These special 600L barrels are typically used for 18 years to age Vin Jaune before being used for several years to age Macvin. This particular barrel had gone through that cycle four times before being sent to Hautes Glaces to age this special whisky. Bottled at cask strength without chillfilteration or additives of any kind. The domaine has since been sold to Remy and single casks have become exceedingly rare and expensive. K&L is the exclusive source for this special cask in California and we've managed to offer it for nearly 50% off the suggested retail price. Don't wait to experience this rare unusual whisky as only a tiny portion of this cask made it this far west.

Details

Type	Single Malt Scotch
Varietal	Malt
Origin	France
Bottle Size	750 mL
Alcohol Content	53.1%
SKU	1515177