2018 Domaine Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec

Vincent Caréme is one of the most dynamic producers in the Vouvray appellation, where a good number are content to rest on Vouvray’s reputation concentrating on making mediocre sparkling wine for the supermarkets. Carême is open-minded and keen to help new producers get established. He and his South African wife, Tania, also make wine in South Africa. 2018 is a very good, ripe Loire vintage and this Sec is a true reflection. It has a ripe, vivid texture, the wood is well handled and there's good acidity on the long finish. Although it can be drunk now, I would leave it another year or so before thinking about drinking it. (JB)

Vincent Careme has explored and worked all over the world on his spirit grape - Chenin Blanc. This favorite son of Vouvray (born and raised) has worked (and continues to work) abroad in South Africa but his native soil called him back to make some of the most terroir driven and forward thinking wines in Vouvray. Working biodynamically and with low intervention winemaking practices, his wines are reflections of the limestone and flint soils. They exude the personality that makes Vouvray so distinctive. The 2018 Sec is an outstanding follow-up to his purely delightful 2017. Showing similar notes of Pippin apple, and Anjou pear, the wine is rounded by notes of orange zest along with a host of spices including nutmeg, candied ginger, clove and allspice. It is more linear and focused on the palate, with years of drinking potential. Classic pairings include duck confit but is perfect with other great salty and/or spicy dishes. For me, a little hardwood smoked salmon with some roasted root vegetables and bitter greens sounds about right.