2009 Bodegas Riojanas "Monte Real" Gran Reserva Rioja

There are not a lot of wine regions where you can get old school wines. We talk about old-school Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa Cab’s and even German Rieslings, but there are very few examples of those wines on the shelves anywhere, let alone here at K&L. Things change, the depth of modern knowledge in both winemaking and viticulture has vastly improved, the demand for certain styles has changed and frankly climate change. There are so many reasons for old school wines not to exist that it seems crazy that it is a significant portion of Rioja’s market. This is a perfect point of entry into this 2009 Gran Reserva. This is a classic, old-school Rioja. Bodegas Riojanas is one of the producers who “modernized” Rioja back in the late 19th century. They helped to create the style of wine that is now considered the old-school. The same family has been shaping these wines ever since. What is old school? With Rioja it is very easy to define, it is long aging with at least three years spent in oak, and that oak must be American. It is on that last piece where this wine has a nod to modernity, it is also aged in French oak. But as soon as you crack open a bottle, you know that this is old school. It is spicy, earthy, savory in a way that it could only be traditional Rioja. Before we get into that I think it is important to quickly point out that this is a single vineyard wine. The “El Monte” vineyard is an estate vineyard that is located outside of the village of Cenicero. While it might not be as famous as Haro, Labastida or San Vicente it has some of the best terroir in the region. Located south of the Ebro River, the soils here are stony with calcareous clay. The vines are planted in the traditional goblet style and only Tempranillo is used for this wine. This wine is in a sweet spot right now, it has just settled into itself, everything is harmonized and the fruit is vibrant and fresh. It does need a little time to open up, only about 15-30 minutes. I imagine the wine a little like someone when they wake up in the morning, it is all there, but a little wild and out of control and needing a few minutes to compose itself. With a little time, the aromatics are focused, the savory edge that the American oak gives the wine has been subdued and the spicy French oak plays a more prominent role. Framed within that bouquet of oak is a soft earthy tone and deep, mellow cherry fruit. On the palate this wine is composed and elegant. It is full bodied and has plenty of tannins, but they are very fine and polished, they are ripe and long and work with the wine's fresh acidity pulling this wine through to a long finish. The core of this wine is the fruit, that mellow cherry note shines, is softened with a dusty earthiness and plays against its limestone minerality. The spice starts to build towards the finish but it is always composed. This is an incredibly composed wine, not the most powerful Gran Reserva on the shelf but what it lacks in obvious power it more than makes up for in finesse. Gran Reservas have traditionally been the ultimate wine that a producer will make, their special occasion wine, this definitely fits that bill. What is most striking with this is how good it is now but how its structure speaks to the future of this wine. I have been fortunate to try wines from this vineyard from the 60’s, and I am not saying that this wine will live for another 50 years, I am tempted to put this away and see what it will be like in 20 and I will not be surprised if it does go for a lot longer than that.

Bodegas Riojanas, founded in 1890, located in Cenicero, between Haro and Logroño. This is 100% Tempranillo, aged in American Oak. Flavors of cherries, blackberries, figs, a touch of coconut, dill, green olive, iodine, savory dried herbs, tobacco, earth, and a Tahin-esque salinity on the finish. Very well balanced between developed ripe fruits, earth, savory tones, and tempered oak. A vibrant, delicious, classic style Rioja!