2010 Our Wine Rkatsiteli Republic of Georgia

Soliko Tsaishvili started making wine as a hobby 30 years ago. He now farms 13.5 acres in Kakheti under biodynamics. some vineyards reaching 50 years old. For this white, based on Rkatsiteli with a little Khikhvi and Mtsvane, he destems the grapes and then adds some stems back along with the grapes in the traditional Georgian earthenware qvevri. After a spontaneous fermentation, the wine remains in the quevri for about six months. That extended skin and stem contact makes for gripping wine, almost more food than drink. It's deeply orange in hue with wild flavors ranging from uni and daikon to smoked ham and oolong tea. Yet despite the concentration of flavor, it has a coolness to it that brings to mind a cellar on a hot day - earthy yet refreshing, a haven that feels far from the outside world.