2022 Domaine Hudelot-Noellat Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

Fabulously fresh in aromas and structure, this smells of crunchy blackberries and black currants mixed with damp bark and brown spices. The dense wine sweeps across the palate with real swagger. The tannins have a lightly gravelly texture, and the acidity makes the palate quiver with freshness. This is a 0.69-hectare holding near the château.

The 2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru is a deep, broad-shouldered wine, unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, incense and spices complemented by hints of potpourri and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's lively and youthfully taut, with everything required to reward a bit of patience. Charles Van Canneyt has produced a beautiful range of 2022s—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend. (WK)