2014 Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos - Clos des Hospices"
Allen Meadows - Burghound
A subtle application of wood serves as a backdrop to the slightly riper white orchard fruit aromas that also display plenty of classic Chablis elements. As is almost always the case there is more size, weight and mid-palate concentration thanks to the copious amount of dry extract that adds a sappy texture to the intensely saline and mineral-driven finale. This possesses better depth than the regular cuvée if perhaps not quite the overall persistence. Still, this too is brilliant.. (AM)
Apple and stone flavors give off a cool reserve in this minerally white. Rich and creamy, with the lively acidity boosting the intensity and driving the long aftertaste of lemon and stone. Best from 2018 through 2029.
Much more closed than the classic Chablis (as well as the 2015 Clos des Hospices) but smells deeper and richer. Fleshy and rather powerful on the palate, with citrus and stone fruit flavors intensified by soil-driven minerality. The extremely long, resounding finish shows a slightly tannic quality. This wine may take even longer to mature than the classic Clos. (The Moreaus also poured me a taste of their 2003 Clos des Hospices from magnum, an utterly distinctive wine with white truffle and olive tapenade aromas and flavors and a remarkable freshness for a hot-vintage wine bottled with just 2.8 grams of acidity. "The wines' tannins protected the 2003s against oxidation," noted Fabien Moreau.) (ST)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos des Hospices was more reticent than the 2015 on the nose and demanded more coaxing from the glass. The palate is well balanced with sappy citrus fruit, a keen line of acidity, although perhaps it does not quite possess the salinity and nerve of the 2014 on the finish; it seems to just lose its way a little. At the moment, my money would be on the straight Les Clos. Domaine Christian Moreau is one of those producers that had been on the upswing in recent years and a bit like Patrick Piuze, I always appreciate my visit here--not only because of the quality of the wines, but because Fabien Moreau always gives me a candid view of the vintage. (Unfortunately, his father Guy was away on this visit.) (NM)