2004 Ruinart "Dom Ruinart" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
The 2004 Dom Ruinart is just as brilliant and viscerally thrilling as it has always been. If anything, the 2004 has shut down considerably over the last six months. Tightly coiled and exceptionally beautiful, the 2004 boasts fabulous intensity, class and pedigree. The flavors are vibrant, chiseled and crystalline in their precision. Time in bottle is doing wonders for the 2004. This is a tremendous showing. Disgorged June 2013. (AG)
This is deep and more layered than many with an already complex and sweet-smelling nutty and toasty edge; it really has a very deliberate, almost showy style of toasty character. It opens to revel in freshly squeezed lemon juice and peach fruits, grilled nuts and hints of spices and flowers. Very, very complex. The palate has compression and focus with really impressive acidity and a long, super-attractive mid-palate. There's an almost sherbet-like fresh layer in the midst of great depth, drive and focus. All the while, it retains a thread of creamy, fleshy fruit presence. Dosage is lowest ever for Dom Ruinart in 2004 at 5.5g per litre.
Showing an impressive backbone of acidity, this is dense and powerful, yet harmonious overall. The fine, creamy mousse swathes the statuesque frame in a silky texture, with honeysuckle, graphite and hazelnut notes lending fragrant accents to the rich palate of baked white peach, toasted brioche, lemon confit and smoke. Drink now through 2030. (AN)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Vivid yellow. Pungent, heady aromas of ripe pear, orange pith, brioche and toasty lees, with a stony nuance adding lift and urgency. Smooth and expansive on the palate, offering intense citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up minerality and smokiness with air. Finishes sappy, penetrating and very long, with slow-building sweetness and a note of buttered toast. (JR)
Wine & Spirits
An ornate Champagne, this layers oxidative notes of pumpkin seeds and almonds over lasting spice. Part of the wine is sweet, part extremely dry, needing time for the two aspects to integrate. It’s round and formidable in its broad flavors, a wine to decant for seared sea scallops and roasted hen of the woods mushrooms.
From the producer: "The Chardonnay is the very soul of Ruinart. The grape, mainly harvested from the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims terroirs, is at the heart of all our cuvées. The delicate, fragile Chardonnay will only display the full breadth of its aromatic richness after a slow maturation in the coolness of the Crayères (our chalk cellars): up to 3 years for non-vintage wines, and 9 to 10 years for a Dom Ruinart."