2005 Troplong Mondot, St-Émilion

We tasted two versions of the 2005 here, one double decanted and one opened just before the tasting. First up double decanted, and it is immediately clear that there is still vibrancy to the ruby-red colour, with dawn-rose hints around the edges. Fennel, rosemary, sage, white pepper, white truffle, grilled sandalwood, cedar, a generous, broad-shouldered, nuanced and spice-filled wine. The oak clamps in halfway through the palate and slightly overpowers things, so I suggest still giving this another few years before drinking. This character is even more true in the just-opened version, with the emphasis on cocoa beans, espresso, rosemary and black pepper spice. Strongly suggest giving it a double decant if opening any time soon. 100% new oak, Michel Rolland consultant.

The 2005 Troplong Mondot is a heady, sumptuous beauty. Sweet black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice, new leather, licorice and menthol all open in the glass. Hedonistic and opulent to the core, the 2005 is a decidedly exuberant Saint-Émilion. I would open it a few hours in advance, as aeration helps soften some of the initial flamboyance. The 2005 is a gorgeous, captivating wine. It is modern Saint-Émilion at its finest. Moreover, it does not appear to have lost much, if anything, since the last time I tasted it a few years ago! (AG)