2008 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart" NFB Brut Champagne

Based on 60% Pinot Noir and the rest Chardonnay, with 17% raised in barrels, the 2008 Champagne Nicolas François spent more than 150 months on its lees, with 2.9 grams per liter dosage. It pours a rich straw hue and is layered and long with aromas of truffle, apricot, croissant, floral orange blossoms, and marmalade. Full-bodied, it’s supple in texture, with a rounded mousse, and has a long-lasting, mouthwatering finish. Exceptionally well-balanced, it comes together seamlessly on the finish. This will be a wine to enjoy over the next three decades. (AF) (11/2023)

On release this is reserved, taut and subtle, with sourdough, confit lemon and gentle blackberry Pinot fruit presented with daring dryness (just 2.9g/L residual sugar) and intensity. The texture surrounding the firm acidity is cool, clean and lightly creamy, the mousse beautifully delicate. Somewhat inscrutable and firm at the moment, this structured and lean Cuvée Nicolas François stands to gain considerable expressiveness with time under cork. Made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay from 83% grand cru vineyards. 17% oak-vinified with 150 months on lees, disgorged in summer 2022. (TH) (5/2023)

Lovely precision and drive to this with aromas of lemon curd, brioche, praline, apricots, pomelos, mandarin zest and salted caramel. It’s held together by a sharp, citrusy backbone of acidity, balanced with a fine, silky mousse. Both structure and softness here. Citrus fruit brightness on a beautifully elegant and seamless finish. (4/2023)

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François was disgorged during the third quarter of 2022 with less than three grams per liter. It has a delicate, pure, clean bouquet with aromas of orchard fruits, spring flowers, honey and licorice, with hints of brioche and pastry with aeration. Medium to full-bodied, chiseled and crystalline, with racy acids and a chalky texture, the palate is tense and the finish is long, penetrating and salty. It exhibits perfect Billecart style, yet tension is present, a sign of the vintage. It is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir (sourced from Aÿ, Mareuil and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant, and it matured 83% in tanks and 17% in old oak barrels. (YC) (4/2023)

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart is an electric, nervy Champagne that very much reflects the style of the year. Crushed rocks, mint, spice, dried herbs, hazelnut, lemon peel and marzipan are all beautifully laced together. The 2008 is just entering its first plateau of maturity, making it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next two decades, possibly more. The blend id 60% Pinot Noir (from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Verzy and Verzenay) and 40% Chardonnay (from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant). It's a terrific effort, although I must add that a recent visit made it pretty clear that even better things lie ahead. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. (AG) (3/2023)

A vibrant Champagne, with vivid acidity enmeshed with the lacy mousse, creating a fine frame for flavors of black currant and apricot fruit, preserved lemon, toast and ground coffee. Reveals minerally hints of oyster shell and brine that linger on the finish. (AN, Web-2023)

The 2008 Cuvée Nicolas François Billecart (NFB for short) is composed of almost entirely grand cru fruit, but with the addition of 17% from their home village, the premier cru of Mareuil-sur-Ay. It is 60% Pinot Noir hailing from that village, Ay, and Verzenay, and 40% Chardonnay from Mesnil, Chouilly and Cramant. It is primarily a stainless steel fermented champagne, but sees 17% oak barrel fermentation to add richness. After 13 years on the lees, it only required 2.9 g/l of dosage to come into balance. -Gary Westby, K&L