2019 Les Crus Faugères "Baron Ermengaud" Faugères (Elsewhere $26)

Les Crus Faugères is the only cooperative in this appellation, managing 2,223 acres or nearly half of Faugères’ vines. It puts out a vast array of labels, including Mas Olivier, also recommended here, but Baron Ermengaud was the standout for both its 2019 and 2018 reds. Mostly syrah (80 percent), with grenache, carignan and mourvèdre, all of it hand-harvested off schist parcels, the 2019 shines in its combination of earthiness and brightness. Lively acidity and herbal notes give it a just-picked freshness that energizes the red fruit; the clarity allows a clear view of the earth, too, in shades of schist and iron. It tastes like it’s from a place, with a sense of sun and garrigue that’s transporting. (6/2021)

Les Crus Faugères is the only cave cooperative in this little-known but quickly rising appellation. The cave oversees the farming and production of 900 hectares of the appellation, almost half the production. It might sound like a bit much, but the "Baron Ermengaud" bottling defines the character and quality of the wines that are coming from Faugères. A blend of 80% Syrah, 10% Grenache, 5% Mourvèdre, and 5% Carignan, the vines are all planted on the classic schist soils that make up the appellation. The "Baron" captures the essence of this region with its mix of spicy and savory fruit-filled notes. A great new wine to try from a region that requires new exploration.