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: 2019 Domaine du Vissoux (Pierre-Marie Chermette) Moulin à Vent "Les Trois Roches"

2019 Domaine du Vissoux (Pierre-Marie Chermette) Moulin à Vent "Les Trois Roches"

SKU #1550175 94 points John Gilman

Outer quote mark The Chermette family’s 2019 Moulin-à-Vent “les Trois Roches” is raised half in foudres and half in one to five year-old Burgundy barrels. This is probably my absolute favorite bottling of Moulin-à-Vent these days (along with those from Château des Jacques) and the 2019 is another stellar young wine. The utterly refined bouquet offers up a complex aromatic constellation of blackberries, black cherries, pomegranate, spit-roasted gamebird, a complex base of dark soil, fresh herb tones, a touch of chicory and a smoky topnote of bonfires on the breeze. On the palate the wine is deep, full and suave on the attack, with a superb core of fruit, lovely soil undertow, fine-grained tannins and a long, complex and beautifully balanced finish. This superb wine is easily going to last forty years! 2024-2065. Inner quote mark (9/2021)

93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark Exhibiting aromas of raspberries, wild berries and orange rind, the 2019 Moulin-à-Vent Les Trois Roches is medium to full-bodied, velvety and perfumed, with a delicate core of fruit, lively acids and melting tannins. This is an especially elegant, harmonious rendition of Les Trois Roches, and I can't wait to see how it develops. Jean-Étienne Chermette was pleased with the quality of his 2019 vintage, and I can only concur. Finer-boned and more elegant than the fleshy, gourmand 2018s, these young wines are very promising. As I've written before, old vines, diligent but traditional vinification and élevage in foudre are the rudiments of the approach here. The younger Chermette—who is launching a label of his own, reviewed in this issue—told me the domaine attained Terra Vitis certification in 2018, which is definitely a step in the right direction. To my palate, some of the cuvées reviewed here number among the finest values that can be found in French wine, and I warmly recommend any readers who haven't yet acquainted themselves with this estate to try a few bottles. (WK) Inner quote mark (5/2020)

93 points Vinous

Outer quote mark Bright ruby-red. Pungent red and blue fruits and candied violet on the lively, mineral- and spice-accented nose. Bright, spicy and energetic in character, offering sappy black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that show fine clarity and deepen slowly with air. Displays subtle chewiness on the gently tannic finish, which hangs on with strong, spicy tenacity and a repeating floral note. Inner quote mark (8/2021)

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2019 Domaine du Vissoux (Pierre-Marie Chermette) Moulin à Vent "Les Trois Roches"

Price: $32.99

Quantity:

JG: 94

RP: 93

VN: 93

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Additional Information:

Varietal:

Gamay

- Ah, poor, oft-maligned Gamay. Once widely planted in Burgundy, today the grape is largely confined to Beaujolais. The varietal, officially called Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc is vigorous, early-ripening and can grow in cooler climates. The grapes naturally high acidity, low tannins and low potential alcohol lends itself to exuberant, fruity wines, ranging from the early-release Beaujolais Nouveau, to the more serious Cru Beaujolais from villages like Brouilly, Moulin-à-Vent and St-Amour that are steadily gaining in popularity (and can age remarkably well). Outside of Beaujolais, Gamay is also grown in small amounts around the Loire where it is called Anjou Gamay and Gamay de Touraine. It is also grown in Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise where it is blended with Pinot Noir, as it is in Switzerland.

Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.

Sub-Region:

Beaujolais

- Region in east central France, often considered a part of Burgundy, but really quite distinct. The principal grape grown here is Gamay Noir. Familiar to many as the source of the Beaujolais Nouveau, the first wine of the vintage, Beaujolais is often fresh, fruity and very appealing red wine. Besides the straight Beaujolais, there is also Beaujolais Villages, and what is known as Cru Beaujolais. The 10 individual Crus, such as Moulin à Vent, Brouilly, Fleurie, Julienas, St. Amour and Chénas, each have their own character, and much more depth than someone who has only tried a simple Beaujolais could ever guess. These often represent value-priced, lovely, food-friendly wines.