2007 Domaine Tatsis Goumenissa Greece

SKU #1547703 96 points Wine & Spirits

Outer quote mark Stergios and Perikles Tatsis have created a small Eden in Goumenissa, a region northeast of Naoussa. Their vineyards, which have never seen a chemical, are hidden among forests teeming with wildlife; when it’s too wet to work the vines, the brothers collect porcini mushrooms, which make for incredible matches with their wines. This 2007 is classic Goumenissa, a blend of Xinomavro with a bit of Negoska (as per the appellation’s regulations), fermented with ambient yeasts in old oak casks. Its scents might bring to mind Barolo, in the notes of leather, tobacco and orange peel, but it’s darker, with hints of roses, sun-dried tomatoes and iron filings that mark it as xinomavro. It’s warmer, too, with a porcini meatiness to its mature flavors that gives it staying power long after each sip. Open it early in the evening, to sip on while you stir the mushroom risotto, and watch as the wine opens all the way through the cheese course. Inner quote mark (8/2021)

Jancis Robinson

Outer quote mark Much more aromatic than the 2013 – garrigue, lavender and sour cherry. And just a hint of dried tomato. So complex on the nose. Chewy with sweet cherry filling out the tannins, much more sweet fruited on the palate than I expected from the nose. Bone dry and elegant. 17/20 points (JH) Inner quote mark (5/2017)

K&L Notes

Brothers Stergios and Perikles Tatsis have done something remarkable in the Greek appellation of Goumenissa. An early adopter of organics and biodynamic principles, they work in a low intervention style using only native yeasts, doing long macerations and with many of their wines, releasing them after they have had years in bottle to settle and find their best footing. Goumenissa is a traditional blend of Xinomavro and Negoska. *Natural Wine*

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Price: $34.99

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Product Reviews:

By: Keith Mabry | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 7/2/2021 | Send Email
When you taste something so unique and exciting like the 2007 Tatsis, often it is easiest to compare it to things you may be more familiar with, so here goes... I quickly describe this as an aged Nebbiolo (the core grape in this wine, Xinomavro has a similar flavor profile) meets Chateau Musar meets Lopez de Heredia. That's a lot to unpack though, so let me clarify what I tasted here. The Tatsis has the structure of a Nebbiolo, with bright acidity and leathery tannins. Like Musar, it has a wild but distinct funkiness. Like Lopez reds, it has a mature but seamless quality. But the Tatsis is first and foremost its own expression of individuality. The nose is one of crushed herbs, dried red currants, grilled meat, dusty spices, and crushed rocks. The palate has nerve and energy, with saturated red and black fruit intermingled with dried sage and incense. The finish rounds out with tannins that have softened with age but remain present, providing an impeccable frame. I tasted this twice and was blown away both times by what immediately emerged in the glass. But give it time in a decanter and it becomes so perfumed and open that it offers even more with each sip. Special in so many ways and very limited, so try this—something new, and you'll equally find a new wine experience to rival some of the world's most eclectic and exciting wines.

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