2016 Bodegas Muga "Selección Especial" Reserva Rioja

This grows at high altitudes, inhigh-density plantings on ancient terraces above the Ebro river, some of the vines dating to 1946, the youngest planted in 1986. Those alluvial soils and old vines performed remarkably well in 2016, delivering a fresh blend—Tempranillo, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano—with cool, silken tannins and the sort of peppery spice you might find in fresh-pressed olive oil. It’s bright and juicy, layering thyme and rosemary fragrance into the fruit complexity. A glorious young Rioja suited to aging, or to drinking now with spit-roasted suckling pig. (12/2021)

A very pretty, manicured young red with plum, berry and dark-chocolate character. Medium body and round tannins that are focused and firm. Delicious, succulent finish. Plenty of subtle fruit and supple tannins take you to where you want to go in fine Rioja red. Drinkable now but linear and tight. Give it some time. (10/2020)

Always a terrific wine, the 2016 Selección Especial is based on 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the rest Graciano and Mazuelo. Almost Rhône-like with its spicy, meaty, gamey style, this beauty offers lots of red and black currants, cedary spice, incense, and tobacco aromas and flavors. It's medium to full-bodied, has terrific balance, silky tannins, and is just a class act. The 2015 is a richer, more opulent wine, while the 2016 shows a touch more freshness and elegance. Both are beautiful vintages worth buying, cellaring, and drinking. (10/2020)

The current vintage of the red that is their first option to have with food is the 2016 Selección Especial, whose grapes are selected from terraced vineyards in the Montes Obarenes and the Sierra Cantabria, from vines averaging 35 years of age. It fermented in oak vats and matured in French oak barrels for 26 months, and it's kept in bottle for at least 18 months before it's sold. This is serious and has freshness and some restraint in the palate; it's much more expressive, floral and aromatic and with more-integrated oak than the wines from five+ years ago. It's a more elegant vintage than the 2015 and every bit as good, or a tad better. Winemaker Isaac Muga considers 2016 a very good harvest. This is among the best vintages of Selección Especial. (LG) 94+ (10/2020)

Vibrant, smoke- and spice-accented cherry and cassis aromas show very good clarity and a hint of candied rose. Sappy, penetrating and focused on the palate, offering finely etched and appealingly sweet dark berry, cherry cola and spicecake flavors along with a subtle chewing tobacco nuance. Closes impressively long and lively, with resonating florality and chewy, youthfully gripping tannins adding final grip. Raised in new and used French oak barrels. (JR) (4/2021)

Not just for fans of Spanish wines, this will thrill Cabernet and Bordeaux drinkers with its bright berry fruit and intense, elegant palate, with layers of fruit, spice and earth. 96 points Tim Atkin MW: "The pick of the current releases from Muga in the absence of new vintages of Aro, Prado Enea and Torre Muga, this Tempranillo-based red sees support from 25% Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano. Scented, poised and well balanced, with toasty, mocha French oak, layers of blackberry and blueberry fruit, fresh acidity and stylish tannins."