2016 Burgo Viejo "Licenciado" Reserva Rioja

SKU #1542230 95 points Decanter

Outer quote mark Bodegas Burgo Viejo is the property of six farming families and comprises more than 200ha of vineyards in the Rioja Oriental region, from where the more full-bodied styles of Rioja are produced (see ‘Regional Profile’, p42). Historically, the bodegas sold their high-quality grapes to neighbouring wineries, until the arrival of the young winemaker Gorka Etxebarria, who saw the potential for them to produce excellent wines themselves. Tempranillo is a firm favourite for this producer, despite Garnacha being the most widely planted grape in the area, and they certainly make a success of it, going by the many accolades they have received over the years. Sarah Jane Evans MW: Distinctly pure, vivid reserva, precise style: limpid fruit, brisk acidity, notable but well balanced oak. Classic. Simon Field MW: Intense colour, powerful aromas of tar and blue fruit; minty savoury, rich, lifted and long; an impressive reserva statement of intent. Pierre Mansour: Classy, spicy black fruit, full, round, generous – depth yet beautifully balanced, very classy, effortless. Drinking Window 2020 - 2026 (by panel) Inner quote mark (11/2019)

92 points Vinous

Outer quote mark Spice-laced cherry, black raspberry, vanilla and tobacco aromas show very good clarity and pick up a hint of smokiness as the wine stretches out. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering intense dark berry, floral pastille, cola and vanilla flavors sharpened by a subtle peppery nuance. Shows impressive energy and minerally thrust on the persistent finish, which is given shape by smooth, harmonious tannins. (JR) Inner quote mark (4/2021)

K&L Notes

Burgo Viejo is a winery project that started in the late 1980’s bringing together 6 families that once only made bulk wines for the local co-op. All of their vineyards are located in the Rioja Oriental subregion, with 200ha of vines based around the town of Alfaro that span from the Ebro river to the Sierra Yerga. The Licenciado is one of their Reserva bottlings. It is 100% Tempranillo that was aged for 18 months in oak barrels of various ages, half French oak, half American. They make traditionally styled wines that express the character of the Easternmost portion of Rioja.

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Price: $19.99
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By: Kirk Walker | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 2/7/2022 | Send Email
This is one heck of Rioja, dark and spicy with a twist. This wine starts off all spice, leather and earth. Dark and intriguing but clean and inviting. Behind that there is a very pretty core of dark cherry fruit. There is almost a juiciness to it with an ever so slight floral lift to it. But all that fruit is surrounded with a dark, earthy spice, with leather and subtle savory tones. It slowly reveals itself from behind all that intrigue. A Garnet in the rough if you will. There is a compact richness and intensity to this that gives it the sensation of being fuller bodied than it is, it just flirts with being full bodied. The tannins are polished and it has mouth watering acidity. That first sip leaves you craving more, your mouth waters with lingering dark chocolate covered cherries, earth and baking spices. With a little time in the glass the palate inverses the nose. The palate sings with a dark, earthy cherry fruit. It drives the wine but it is not a polished juicy wine. The leather, earth and spice frame and contain the fruit. The tannins and the acidity lengthen the wine and restraining the fruit. This is one heck of a Rioja. Rich enough to want to pair it with a hearty stew supple enough to enjoy with small bites.

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