2017 Domaine Bernard et Thierry Glantenay Volnay 1er Cru "Les Brouillards"

SKU #1517566 90-92 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Brouillards exhibits beautiful nose notes of orange rind, wild berries, cassis and rose petals. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a lavishly textural attack, melting tannins and a succulent core of fruit, concluding with a long finish. In 2016, this cuvée was so small that Glantenay included it in his Volnay AOC, but happily, 2017 marks its return to the range. The disarmingly modest Thierry Glantenay is emerging as one of the Côte de Beaune's most exciting producers of red wine. From his hillside winery overlooking the Marquis d'Angerville's Clos des Ducs, Glantenay is producing a lovely range of elegant, pure and intense Volnays and Pommards that are increasingly consistent and stylistically assured. In the cuverie, he tells me, he is more and more content to let temperature and alcohol do the work of extraction for him, keeping pigéage and rémontage to a minimum; pressing is gentle; and élevage, without racking until the mise en bouteille, takes place in at most 30% new barrels. In the cellar, no matter which barrel you choose, the wines taste reliably wonderful: indeed, after my first tasting with Glantenay, some years ago, I was compelled to return a week later to verify that I hadn't been imagining things, and that so serious a producer could really be so little known. That his wines sometimes take longer to bounce back after bottling than those of his peers, therefore, surprises me. Glantenay neither (WK) Inner quote mark (1/2019)

Vinous

Outer quote mark The 2017 Volnay Les Brouillards 1er Cru returns after being completely frosted in 2016. This just shows a touch of VA on the nose, missing the precision of the Village Cru at the moment. The palate is sweet and candied with supple tannin, plenty of sucrosity, but it just lacks the refinement of other crus from Glantenay this year. Let’s see if it improves in bottle. (NM) Inner quote mark (1/2019)


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Price: $79.99
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