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2018 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Grosses Gewächs Alte Reben Mosel

SKU #1517038 95 points Wine Enthusiast

Outer quote mark Cooling, crystalline mineral tones accent crisp grapefruit and white peach-flavors here. Sourced from blue-slate soils of the Graacher Himmelreich, it’s a svelte but silky, almost cream-textured wine structured by firm acidity and a long, steely finish. It’s approachable already but should improve through 2035 at least and hold longer still. *Editors' Choice* (AI) Inner quote mark (6/2021)

93 points John Gilman

Outer quote mark The 2018 Himmelreich Grosses Gewächs from Ernst Loosen is also 12.5 percent alcohol, which was no easy feat in this very hot summer. This is again made from very old, ungrafted vines in excess of one hundred years of age in this beautiful vineyard in Graach, with the wine having 7.8 grams of acidity and 8.7 grams per liter of residual sugar. It is handled in the cellars exactly the same as the Treppchen GG and delivers a fine, precise and complex nose of apple, pear, violets, lilacs, a lovely foundation of slate, bee pollen and a touch of lime zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very well-balanced, with a more youthful and reserved personality out of the blocks than the Treppchen GG, a lovely core of fruit, fine mineral drive and a long, nascently complex and zesty finish. This is a bit more tensile in personality out of the blocks and will need some cellaring to start to relax structurally, but all of the constituent components are in place here for a great bottle in due course. (Drink between 2026-2050) Inner quote mark (8/2020)

93 points James Suckling

Outer quote mark Plenty of juicy and succulent white peaches here. This has a very fresh and attractively lithe feel and fresh acidity. This is delicious. Drink or hold. Inner quote mark (9/2019)

93 points Wine & Spirits

Outer quote mark From old, own-rooted vines rooted in Himmelreich’s cool blue-slate slopes, this feels cool and restrained. It’s 100 percent savory, more about earth than fruit, with a gingery spice that adds verve. The combination of fine-boned delicacy and steadfast strength is appealing, and suggests that the wine will have more to say with age. Inner quote mark (2/2021)

90-91 points Vinous

Outer quote mark Lemon and apple are piquantly seed-tinged, but display more sheer juiciness and animating brightness than delivered by this year’s Loosen Grosse Gewächse from the Domprobst and the Wehlener Sonnenuhr. Underlying firmness and pithy palate concentration are assuaged by subtle textural enrichment from lees. The wine finishes with impressive grip, admirable transparency to stony and alkaline notes and sheer refreshment that some of its stablemates fail to deliver. It was due for bottling near the end of 2019 or in early 2020. (For some background on the vines that inform it, consult my review of the corresponding 2016.) (DS) Inner quote mark (11/2020)

K&L Notes

92-95 points Mosel Fine Wines: "AP: 50 19. The 2018er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the main label (the reference to GG is left for the back label), comes from very old un-grafted vines in the prime Stablay, Tirley and Humberg sectors, and was fermented with ambient yeasts and aged in oak for almost 12 months. This cask sample offers a superbly complex and deep nose of smoke, almond, grapefruit puree, lime, and anise. The wine proves still quite backward and delicately creamy on the palate but develops some subtle presence in the very long, smoky, and multi-layered finish. The after-taste of this hugely promising dry Riesling is packed with flavors without ever being overpowering."

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Price: $49.99

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