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2017 Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu" (Previously $43)

SKU #1483823 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu (Maison) delivers an expressive bouquet of musky peaches, honeycomb, flowers and toasted almonds. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a gourmand profile that's balanced by ripe acids. It's an accessible wine that will drink well in the near term. This was an enjoyable tasting with the dynamic Grégory Viennois, who today, as technical director, presides over Laroche's fully 90 hectares. As I wrote last year, Viennois is a Chapoutier and Derenoncourt alumnus, and he is working toward more sustainable farming and moderated yields in the vineyards, as well as long pressing in the cuverie in pursuit of structuring dry extract. Recently used oak is more subtly employed, and Laroche's early-2000s transition to screwcap closures has been abandoned. The 2017 vintage was showing well, largely realizing the promise it showed during élevage, and a first look at the 2018 vintage revealed more than a few promising cuvées, Viennois's work at the press evident in chalky back-end structure, which will be interesting to follow throughout élevage. (WK) Inner quote mark (8/2019)

K&L Notes

92 pts Jasper Morris for Inside Burgundy: "Achat but vinified here. Mid slope in the heart of the parcel, plenty of stones. Very powerful, great intensity and enough acidity, faint touch of iodine, but this is massive. Middle plus persistence."

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