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: 2017 Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu"

2017 Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu" (Previously $43)

SKU #1483823 Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu (Maison) delivers an expressive bouquet of musky peaches, honeycomb, flowers and toasted almonds. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, with a gourmand profile that's balanced by ripe acids. It's an accessible wine that will drink well in the near term. This was an enjoyable tasting with the dynamic Grégory Viennois, who today, as technical director, presides over Laroche's fully 90 hectares. As I wrote last year, Viennois is a Chapoutier and Derenoncourt alumnus, and he is working toward more sustainable farming and moderated yields in the vineyards, as well as long pressing in the cuverie in pursuit of structuring dry extract. Recently used oak is more subtly employed, and Laroche's early-2000s transition to screwcap closures has been abandoned. The 2017 vintage was showing well, largely realizing the promise it showed during élevage, and a first look at the 2018 vintage revealed more than a few promising cuvées, Viennois's work at the press evident in chalky back-end structure, which will be interesting to follow throughout élevage. (WK) Inner quote mark (8/2019)

K&L Notes

92 pts Jasper Morris for Inside Burgundy: "Achat but vinified here. Mid slope in the heart of the parcel, plenty of stones. Very powerful, great intensity and enough acidity, faint touch of iodine, but this is massive. Middle plus persistence."

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2017 Domaine Laroche Chablis 1er Cru "Mont de Milieu"

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Varietal:

Chardonnay

- It's hard to believe that up until about 30 years ago, this extremely popular varietal hid behind the veil of geographical names like Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet. Now grown all over the world and bottled by its varietal name, Chardonnay has achieved a level of branding unlike any other wine. Surprisingly, though, what you get when you buy Chardonnay can differ greatly from country to country and even within one country, depending on the climate where it's grown and how it is vinified and aged. From fresh, crisp and minerally with apple and lemon notes to rich and buttery with tropical fruit overtones, Chardonnay runs the gamut. In France's Burgundy, Chardonnay is the source of the prized wines of Chablis, Corton-Charlemagne, Mâcon, Meursault and Montrachet. It also the foundation of exceptional Champagne, where it is blended with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier or vinified on its own into Blanc de Blancs. It is also extremely popular in California, and is gaining popularity in Australia, New Zealand, Italy, Spain and South Africa.

Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.

Sub-Region:

Chablis

- The region north of the Cote d'Or, famous for its steely dry white wines made from Chardonnay. There are 7 Grands Crus vineyards, and numerous Premier Crus. Unfortunately, the name has been borrowed and badly abused by producers of inferior white wines in the US as well as in Australia. True French Chablis is a delicate, stony, crisp Chardonnay, bearing no resemblance to the anonymous plonk so labeled here.