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: 2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett

2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett

SKU #1454175 94 points James Suckling

Outer quote mark The right edge of reductive funk here and a very fresh array of white-nectarine and lime aromas and succulent flavors. Sublime freshness and drinkability here. Inner quote mark (4/2019)

92 points John Gilman

Outer quote mark The 2018 Juffer Kabinett had been bottled a couple of weeks ahead of Prowein and was showing very well at the time of my visit. The wine comes in at nine percent alcohol, with 7.7 grams per liter of acidity and forty-five grams of residual sugar this year. The wine is lovely and really quite classical in its Kabinett sensibilities, offering up a beautiful bouquet of apple, pear, salty slate minerality, spring flowers and an esthery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is medium-full, bright and beautifully mineral in personality, with excellent focus and grip, zesty acids and fine filigree on the long and complex finish. Given my recent research on just how brilliantly Kabinetten can age, it is a pity that this wine was not bottled under natural cork, as it could have lasted for half a century. We will have to see how it fares under screwcap, but there is no doubting the its impeccable quality out of the blocks. Inner quote mark (4/2019)

92 points Vinous

Outer quote mark Apple, honeydew melon and lime mingle on a delightfully generous nose and an equally engaging palate whose gloss is allied to delicacy and complemented by brightness uncommon for this vintage – a clear tribute to Haag’s having had these grapes harvested in the middle of September. A honeyed hint of quince emerges midpalate. Sweetness here is well integrated to enhance the impression of lusciousness but not preclude animating brightness, consummate refreshment or transparency to wet stone on the finish. This Kabinett’s 9% alcohol illustrates the wisdom in 2018 of letting alcohol rise a bit over what’s typical for the genre, which had the effect of moderating sweetness without sacrificing any sense of levity. “If anything, I’d like in future to move residual sugar in my Kabinett even lower than the 45 grams that are present here,” averred Haag, “but naturally one has to be cautious and sensitive to consumers’ expectations.” (DS) Inner quote mark (10/2020)

91 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark Oliver Haag has stopped suppressing the vineyard name on the label of his Brauneberger "village" wine, so the newest release comes along as 2018 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett. The wine has a very clear, fresh and crunchy slate bouquet but is still reductive (in a very attractive way, though) before it opens to very clear, attractive ripe stone fruit aromas intertwined with spicy slate notes. On the palate, this is a clear, lush, fresh, salty-piquant and delicately structured Riesling with gorgeous fruit and a crisp, salty/slatey finish. Tasted in April 2019. (SR) Inner quote mark (6/2019)

K&L Notes

93 points, Mosel Fine Wines: "AP: 03 19. The 2018er Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett was made from fruit harvested at approx. 85° Oechsle on the Brauneberger hill (i.e. in the Juffer and Juffer-Sonnenuhr vineyards) and was fermented down to fruity-styled levels of residual sugar. It offers a beautiful nose made of vineyard peach, herbs, floral elements and refreshing elements of whipped crème fraiche. The wine is gorgeously playful on the palate, where it unleashes some nice orchard fruits, ripe zesty elements and the creamy side of a light Spätlese. The finish is animating and hugely long. This is a gorgeously animating expression of light-footed and floral Mosel Riesling. (08/2019)."

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2018 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett

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Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.

Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.

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