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2017 Hexamer Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg "Quarzit" Riesling

SKU #1441433 Vinous

 This featured a higher percentage of spontaneous fermentation than did the corresponding “Porphyr” bottling, and that shows in some residual aromatic yeastiness and smokiness that slightly clouds scents of mango and Persian melon. The mouth feel is surprisingly soft, with a luscious emphasis on sheer fruitiness; the finish caressingly-sustained and a bit superficially sweet. Apropos sweetness, residual sugar in this cuvée, although it has been steadily diminishing, is still at a level (here 35 grams) where the wine works best under conditions of genuine tension with prominent acidity, and in the presence of salinity and crystalline minerality of the sort one anticipates (with good reason) under the rubric “quartzite.” Unfortunately (and rather surprisingly) those conditions seem not to have been met in 2017. Perhaps not irrelevant to quality is the fact that this cuvée has grown enormously in volume in recent years and is in consequence now more diversely-sourced than it was until a few years ago. (DS)  (4/2019)

Wine Spectator

 Aromatic, showing aromas of elderflower and jasmine that continue on the palate, followed by passion fruit and saffron details. A lovely sipper, with a pleasant mouthfeel. Drink now. (AZ, Web Only-2019)

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Price: $17.99

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