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2017 Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes (Previously $80)

SKU #1441223 92 points Decanter

Outer quote mark Vineyards in Brochon supply fruit for four of the five vineyards in this old vine cuvée (the other one is in Gevrey) and it shows in the zip and crunch of the wine. The old vines add depth and texture to the palate, with 40% new wood framing the finish. Drinking Window 2022 - 2027. (TA) Inner quote mark (11/2018)

91 points John Gilman

Outer quote mark Phillip Harmand’s 2017 Vieilles Vignes bottling is also excellent this year. The wine delivers a classic nose of black cherries, dark berries, grilled meats, espresso, black minerality, woodsmoke and a touch of chicory in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite focused, with a good core, fine soil signature, moderate tannins and a long, poised and very nicely balanced finish. (Drink between 2021-2050) Inner quote mark (11/2018)

Allen Meadows - Burghound

Outer quote mark (from 50 to 60+ year old vines). A restrained and quite deeply pitched nose combines notes of plum, red currant, herbal tea, wood and plenty of earth character. The old vines are in evidence as there is good mid-palate density to the punchy and stony medium-bodied flavors that possess a spicy inner mouth perfume before culminating in a youthfully austere, palate coating and sneaky long finish. At least a few years of patience would be beneficial. 2027+ Inner quote mark (1/2020)

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes derives from vines that are between 50 and 85 years age, but Harmand tells me that the cuvée is more of a terroir selection from riper sites, including Champerrier, En Monge and Combe du Dessus on the Brochon side of the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin. Exhibiting aromas of smoked meats, wild berries, spices and dark chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and muscular, but I preferred the more defined and penetrating Clos Prieur this year. Philippe Harmand presides over this nine-hectare Gevrey-Chambertin estate, an address that deserves to be better known. I began visiting some years ago, on the advice of Bertrand Dugat, and it was a pleasure to return to taste the domaine's bottled 2017s, as well as a selection of 2018s in barrel. In the vineyards, Harmand plows his soils and uses the bare minimum of chemical products: no herbicides or insecticides, but sometimes anti-mildew treatments at flowering. Adapting to warmer, sunnier conditions, he no longer removes leaves, instead trying to maintain protecting shade for the vines' fruiting zone, though Philippe will perform a green harvest—as in 2017 and 2018—to control yields. In the cuverie, everything is destemmed, and macerations last for a classical two to three weeks. Élevage, with one racking, takes place in barrels from tonnelleries François Frères and Meyrieux for some 16 months. The result are classic expressions of Gevrey, endowed with rich but lively fruit tones and w Inner quote mark (2/2020)

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