2017 Domaine Jean et Gilles Lafouge Auxey Duresses Rouge 1er Cru "Les Duresses"

SKU #1416161 93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 Lafouge's 2017 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru Les Duresses is showing very well from bottle, wafting from the glass with a pretty bouquet of cherries, cassis, licorice and dried flowers that's richer and riper than it seemed from barrel. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by ripe acids and supple tannins that belie this premier cru's name. While this is unlikely to prove among the most long-lived reds of Lafouge's career, it will offer immense pleasure for the better part of a decade. As I wrote late last year, Domaine Jean et Gilles Lafouge produces a range of impressively consistent and compelling wines from some ten hectares spread across the appellations of Auxey-Duresses, Meursault and Pommard, and it numbers among my favorite insider domaines in Burgundy. Old vines, cultivated soils and classical winemaking are the rudiments of Gilles Lafouge's recipe for success. The clean and organized cuverie and cellar immediately communicate a sense of dedication and attention to detail that comes across just as strongly in the glass. Their range of Auxey-Duresses red and white wines demonstrate what these terroirs can deliver when given the same treatment as more glamorous appellations, and they develop beautifully in bottle.(WK)  (7/2019)

92-93 points John Gilman

 As I mentioned in the intro, this wine had just been racked shortly before my visit, as it is scheduled for an earlier bottling, so it was not completely on form. But, there are enough of its constituent components on display to know this is an outstanding and very elegant bottle in the making. The nose is a lovely, complex and red fruity blend of strawberries, cherries, pomegranate, cocoa powder, chalky soil tones, a whisper of mustard seed, pigeon, cedar and a topnote of rose petals. On the palate the wine is pure, full, long and shapely, with a good core, superb transparency, suave tannins and a long, tangy and complex finish. Great wine for sure, but it is not quite precise today, as it has not yet snapped back in after its racking. But, it is very hard to imagine it not eventually deserving the higher score in the range. 2024-2065.  (12/2019)


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Price: $36.99

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Additional Information:

Varietal:

Pinot Noir

- One of France's most legendary grapes and the grape that earned Burgundy its reputation. The parent of varietals like Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir is blue to violet to indigo in color with relatively thin skins, and it is said to have been cultivated in France for more than 2,000 years. At its best, Pinot Noir creates elegant wines that are filled with primary red fruit aromas and flavors while young, revealing with an array of secondary characteristics like earth, smoke, violet, truffle and game with age. The varietal is also known, perhaps better than any, for its ability to translate terroir, or a sense of place. While the best Pinot Noir still comes from Burgundy, it is being produced with increasing success in cooler climates around the world. In France, it is part of the trifecta of grapes that can go into Champagne, and it is also grown in Alsace, Irancy, Jura, Savoie, Lorraine and Sancerre. Outside of France it is produced under the names Pinot Nero and Blauburgunder in Italy's mountainous regions, as Spätburgunder in Germany and as Blauburgunder in Austria. In the US, Pinot Noir has found suitable growing conditions in the cooler parts of California, including Carneros, the Russian River Valley, the Anderson Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Monterey County, the Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Barbara County, as well as in Oregon's Willamette Valley. In recent years, New Zealand has demonstrated its ability to interpret this hard-to-grow varietal, with successful bottlings coming from careful and attentive growers in Central Otago, Martinborough and Canterbury. Chile is also an up-and-coming region for Pinot Noir, creating fresh, fruit-forward, early-drinking and affordable Pinots from the coastal Casablanca Valley and the Limari Valley.
Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.
Sub-Region:

Burgundy

- The province of eastern France, famous for its red wines produced from Pinot Noir and its whites produced from Chardonnay. (Small of amounts of Gamay and Aligoté are still grown, although these have to be labeled differently.) The most famous part of the region is known as the Côte d'Or (the Golden Slope). It is divided into the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune (famous principally for its whites), and the Côte de Nuits, North of Beaune (home of the most famous reds). In addition, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais are important wine growing regions, although historically a clear level (or more) below the Côte d'Or. Also include by some are the regions of Chablis and Auxerrois, farther north.