2017 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Auslese Mosel (Previously $50)

SKU #1412479 93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 With 20% to 30% botrytis (what normally classifies for a Gold Capsule), the 2017 Goldtröpfchen Auslese displays a concentrated and refreshing botrytis-scented nose that needs some years to develop more finesse. On the palate, this is a lush, pretty powerful and creamy/slightly milky-textured Auslese with pronounced but well-integrated acidity. The 2017 needs quite a bit of time to gain more finesse and brightness. Tasted in April 2019. (SR) 93+  (6/2019)

K&L Notes

David Schildknecht writes: "For a long time, proprietor Theo Haart was almost the only grower properly showcasing the potential of the famous Goldtröpfchen (and also of the less familiar Domherr and Gräfenberg). He was best known for doing so with residually sweet Rieslings that endowed this site’s inherently colorful fruit with delicacy, refinement, energy and mineral complexity. But Haart, like many other Mosel growers, showed increasing interest in dry wines as the previous century drew to a close; and with son Johannes having come aboard in the new millennium, that interest has become keener. The younger Haart seems entirely convinced by the Grosses Gewächs model and prefers to see to it that his top dry-tasting wines are also legally trocken, although in my experience this occasionally comes at the price of some heat or exaggeration of piquant elements thanks to enhanced alcohol. For most of Theo Haart’s tenure at the helm, stainless steel was almost the exclusive vinificatory vessel, but a bit of wood has lately been reintroduced to the cellar. In the early 1990s, Haart began championing the once-famous Wintricher Ohligsberg, and more recently his acquisition and revival of the tiny Piesporter Kreuzwingert has further broadened the range of distinctive terroirs and wines on display at this address."


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Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.
Sub-Region:

Mosel-Saar-Ruwer