2016 Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling Kamptal (Biodynamic) (Previously $50)

SKU #1409611 92 points Vinous

 Peach, orange, lime, oregano, peony, rowan and carnation combine for a pungent and (given that it’s Gaisberg we’re talking about) unexpectedly floral nose. The midpalate is glossy and richly fruited yet delightfully buoyant and brightly juicy, with the effusive array of floral elements persisting as inner-mouth perfume. Zesty citrus peel and piquant apricot kernel lend stimulating counterpoint to an impressively sustained finish suffused with mouthwatering salinity. (DS)  (12/2018)

K&L Notes

Stephan Reinhardt writes: "Johannes Hirsch continues to produce very clear, vital and digestible wines with bright fruit and a food-friendly structure. The Rieslings and Veltliners—all farmed biodynamic—are finessed and possess a great definition and clarity. With the 2015 vintage, Hirsch has introduced a new Grüner Veltliner from the Kammerner Gaisberg. It contains a bit of Riesling (8%) that is also planted on the upper terraces of the 1ÖTW site. In 2015 both varieties were harvested and processed separately before the assemblage whereas they were fermented together in 2016. The upper Gaisberg terraces are very poor, and the vines root partly in mica schist, which gives the Gaisberg Grüner Veltliner a very distinctive character. Hirsch's series of 2016s is one of the finest in Lower Austria."

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- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.


- Austria is a well-respected wine-growing region in Europe. Yet, even though they make about a third the volume of wine as Germany, not many of these fine bottles make it to the shelves of American wine merchants or restaurants. Lucky for us, their anonymity has translated into incredible value from simple, everyday whites to exquisite dessert wines. Austria shares many grape varieties with Germany—Riesling is king here, too. But the style of Austrian whites is much dryer and more potent. Grüner Veltliner is Austria's second-most-important varietal and makes whites of great versatility and pleasure.