2017 Domaine Marquis d'Angerville Volnay 1er Cru "Clos des Ducs" (Pre-Arrival)

SKU #1406521 97 points Decanter

 This superb 2.15ha monopole, located on white clay soils just behind the winery and high on the slopes above Volnay, has made one of the great wines of the vintage in 2017. It's powerful, structured and complex, with layers of red cherry, raspberry and pomegranate fruit, sinewy tannins and pools of concentration. A stylishly oaked wine that's long, mineral and satisfying. Drinking Window 2025-2035. (TA)  (10/2018)

94-96 points Vinous

 The 2017 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru is the famous crown jewel monopole of the domaine, ostensibly the rear garden with its own spring. Initially it is showing some reduction on the nose, although it dissipates with aeration. It is certainly reticent at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a gentle grip on the entry. It provides that arching structure that defines this vineyard and gives it its longevity, yet paradoxically the mouth sensation is supple and smooth, with just a touch of spice tingling on the finish. Noble, and aristocratic - just how a Clos des Ducs ought to be.(NM)  (1/2019)

92-95 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

 (a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). There is an overt spiciness to the even more restrained nose that blends notes of red cherry, plum, violet, lavender and a whiff of warm earth. The sleek, intense and chiseled middle weight flavors flash ample minerality before terminating in a youthfully austere and wonderfully persistent finish that, like the Caillerets, is impeccably well-balanced. This tautly muscular effort is also youthfully austere and very much built-to-age. In a word, lovely.  (4/2019)

92-94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is the most incipiently complex wine in the cellar this year, unfurling in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, grilled squab, dark chocolate and spices, as well as a lifted top-note of rose petal. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with good concentration at the core, a fine-grained but elegantly firm chassis of tannin and a long, mineral finish. The 2017 portfolio is charming, perfumed and emphatically Volnaysien at the Domaine Marquis d'Angerville, and Guillaume d'Angerville and his team should be very proud of their achievement. The suppleness and charm of the vintage at its best has tempered the muscularity of which the Domaine's more structural wines—Champans, Taillepieds and Clos des Ducs—are capable in firmer, more tight-knit vintages, but these Volnays don't lack depth or concentration. The obvious analogy is with the Domaine's 2007s. Followers of d'Angerville will be familiar with the protocol here: destemmed grapes, classical macerations and élevage in barrels of which 20% are new, older barrels generally being retained for five vintages. While the wines aren't marked by new oak, they aren't quite as backward and slow to evolve as they were in the days of Guillaume d'Angerville's father, and that will be especially true of these 2017s, wines that will in many cases deliver a great deal of pleasure in the near- and medium-term. (WK)  (1/2019)

K&L Notes

90-95pts Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy: "Medium deep purple, but this is very reductive on the nose. Tight and tense on the palate and of course the reduction toughens the finish, but there is a wealth of high-class fruit in the middle which cannot be held back. All in a classy fresh raspberry style. I have given a wide bracket of scores in order to take the reduction into account – I have every confidence this will merit the top end of the range in due course." (01/2019)


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Varietal:

Pinot Noir

- One of France's most legendary grapes and the grape that earned Burgundy its reputation. The parent of varietals like Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir is blue to violet to indigo in color with relatively thin skins, and it is said to have been cultivated in France for more than 2,000 years. At its best, Pinot Noir creates elegant wines that are filled with primary red fruit aromas and flavors while young, revealing with an array of secondary characteristics like earth, smoke, violet, truffle and game with age. The varietal is also known, perhaps better than any, for its ability to translate terroir, or a sense of place. While the best Pinot Noir still comes from Burgundy, it is being produced with increasing success in cooler climates around the world. In France, it is part of the trifecta of grapes that can go into Champagne, and it is also grown in Alsace, Irancy, Jura, Savoie, Lorraine and Sancerre. Outside of France it is produced under the names Pinot Nero and Blauburgunder in Italy's mountainous regions, as Spätburgunder in Germany and as Blauburgunder in Austria. In the US, Pinot Noir has found suitable growing conditions in the cooler parts of California, including Carneros, the Russian River Valley, the Anderson Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Monterey County, the Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Barbara County, as well as in Oregon's Willamette Valley. In recent years, New Zealand has demonstrated its ability to interpret this hard-to-grow varietal, with successful bottlings coming from careful and attentive growers in Central Otago, Martinborough and Canterbury. Chile is also an up-and-coming region for Pinot Noir, creating fresh, fruit-forward, early-drinking and affordable Pinots from the coastal Casablanca Valley and the Limari Valley.
Country:

France

- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.
Sub-Region:

Burgundy

- The province of eastern France, famous for its red wines produced from Pinot Noir and its whites produced from Chardonnay. (Small of amounts of Gamay and Aligoté are still grown, although these have to be labeled differently.) The most famous part of the region is known as the Côte d'Or (the Golden Slope). It is divided into the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune (famous principally for its whites), and the Côte de Nuits, North of Beaune (home of the most famous reds). In addition, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais are important wine growing regions, although historically a clear level (or more) below the Côte d'Or. Also include by some are the regions of Chablis and Auxerrois, farther north.
Specific Appellation:

Volnay

- Sometimes known as the Chambolle Musigny of the Côte de Beaune, Volnay is famous for its silky, elegant wines with finesse, delicacy and an almost ethereal nose. However, the wines have a depth and structure that can allow them to age for decades. Remington Norman said it wonderfully in his book The Great Domaines of Burgundy: 'If the wines of Pommard sometimes seem like a truck-driver's interpretation of Pinot, then those of Volnay are a ballerina's.