2017 Donnhoff Hollenpfad Mulenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs (Pre-Arrival)

SKU #1380892 98 points James Suckling

 A star is born! Stunning white-peach and herbal nose, then a sensational combination of ripeness and freshness that whips this forward like a jockey driving a racehorse towards the winning post. From organically grown grapes. Fair'n Green certification. This has enormous aging potential. Drink or hold. (NS)  (9/2018)

93 points John Gilman

 The first example of GG from the Höllenpfad was made from a parcel of forty year-old vines in the filet section of the vineyard known as Mühlenberg and comes in with a similar alcohol and residual sugar level to the Krötenpfuhl. This too is a lovely example, offering up a fine bouquet of pink grapefruit, tart orange, a bit of briny ocean breeze, citrus peel, lemongrass and wild yeasts. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and a bit more reserved structurally than the Krötenpfuhl, with a fine core, ripe acids and excellent length and grip on the nascently complex finish. 2023-2060.  (6/2018)

92 points Vinous

 Given what I wrote about the forceful grip and pronounced phenolics of this year’s “regular” dry Höllenpfad, I confess to having approached this Grosses Gewächs with slight trepidation. But, there is in fact greater primary juiciness, clarity, focus as well as textural allure. Smoky black tea accents pip-inflected pear and zesty lemon in a nose and palate of impressive intensity – yet combined with an alluring silkiness of feel and an abundance of primary juiciness. A crunchy, earthy suggestion of turnip lends further interest. Generous juiciness and citric brightness serve to balance-out the palpable, incisive and sizzling impingement of fresh ginger, radish and white pepper that serve for finishing vibrancy and grip. (DS)  (4/2019)

K&L Notes

92 points Mosel Fine Wines: "AP: 25 18. The 2017er Roxheimer Höllenpfad im Mühlenberg GG delivers a beautifully attractive, aromatic and complex nose of anise, minty herbs, chalky minerals, smoke, white peach and a hint of camphor. The wine proves quite compact and juicy on the palate. Thankfully, some gooseberry, cassis and herbs add a refreshing and playful side to the experience. The finish is superbly long, pure and focused. This is a great success. 2024-2032" (10/2018)

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Price: $69.99

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- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.


- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.