Give this pale gold spirit a couple of minutes to open in the glass. The reward is a gentle almond aroma and mild vanilla sweetness on the palate, rounding to dusty, earthy coriander and a ginger-spiked finish. Made with a portion of genever aged in oak up to 17 years. (KN) (8/2019)
The ultra complex Old Style from De Borgen is easily one of the most exciting spirits on the market today. The flashy gold bottle contrasts with the incredible refinement and complexity that lies hidden inside. While this special product uses all the same techniques developed nearly 400 years ago, its sophistication is yet to be appreciated by the modern American drinking culture. The whole thing starts with a triple distilled juniper spirit, essentially an extraction of multiple types of juniper refined over three distillations on small alembic pot stills. This is blended with heady, unaged malt spirit and softened with grain alcohol. Finally, a significant portion of 17-year-old malt is added to provide richness, depth and a harmonious link between the powerful malt spirit and the pungent juniper distillate. Yes, that's essentially a 17-year-old single malt aged in European oak being added to a gin. The result is something otherworldly. It becomes very clear, very quickly, why this product was so ubiquitous in fine drinking establishments before Prohibition and stands in stark contrast to some of the other Holland gins we've come across.
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