1982 Ausone, St-Emilion (high shoulder fill, depressed cork)

The bottle in the blind flight showed rather autumnal aromas and an element of old wood on the nose; modest volume and sweetness; and some unabsorbed acidity on the back end. Second bottle: Full healthy red with a hint of amber. Cool, laid-back aromas of cherry, minerals and menthol. Dense with extract but extremely dry, even tough. The tannins seem astringent for the vintage. I rated this bottle 89(+?). With my third bottle I finally hit the jackpot: Much fresher, more minerally aromas show superb purity and clarity. Then very youthfully unevolved in the mouth, with vibrant dark fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes impressively long, with firm tannins that avoid dryness. Drink 2010 through 2030. 94+ Points (ST) (8/2002)

Tasted at Pebbles/Zachy’s 1982 dinner in Hong Kong. Again, this is a 1982 that I have not tasted for a number of years. It is actually a better showing than I would have predicted given its auspicious company, especially in juxtaposition with Cheval Blanc. It has a rather odd not of wild mushroom, bacon fat and truffle, although there is certainly some brettanomyces adding some of the old sweaty saddle aromas that rather knocks the aromatics sideways. The palate is medium-bodied and loose knit on the entry. To be honest, it has more elegance than I anticipated and I cannot help feeling that if it were not for the brett it would have been a “contender”. But there is certainly good substance here and I suspect larger formats might have more to offer. (NM) (1/2013)

A real beauty. Dark ruby color, with a garnet hue. Very fresh fruit with floral, berry and perfume character. Full-bodied, with superfine tannins and long, sweet fruit. (JS) (11/1998)