2016 Kruger-Rumpf Dautenpflanzer Grosses Gewachs Riesling Nahe (Previously $40)

SKU #1353894 93-94 points Vinous

 This represents a second cask of potential Grosses Gewächs and hadn’t yet been bottled or even racked from its lees when I tasted it in August 2017. It remains to be seen how it will be labeled to get around the VDP proscription on two legally dry wines from the same vintage labeled for the same “Grosse Lage.” “The first lot [which was bottled as Grosses Gewächs] was expressive at only three grams of residual sugar, while I found this one with seven or eight grams so exciting that I wanted to bottle it as is. Besides,” explained Georg Rumpf, “attempting a blend of the two revealed that neither one did anything for the other.” The fascinating herbal and root vegetable characteristics, along with the bright lemony acidity of this year’s Grosses Gewächs, are here allied to a more richly textured palate and share billing with lusciously ripe white peach. The finish not only glows with piquancy and delivers infectious juiciness but also adds a vibrant sense of active, crystalline mineral impingement. Just as Georg Rumpf had anticipated and wished to demonstrate, additional time on the lees hasn’t in the least inhibited clarity, not even when tasting from the cask. (Nor has a bit more residual sugar done any harm.) “This is the direction I want to go,” said Georg Rumpf, summing up his impressions. That sounds good to me! (DS)  (4/2018)

93 points James Suckling

 Quite a powerful ripe wine, but with a serious acidity that you’ll either go for or you won't. If the first impression doesn't decide that, then the whiplash finish will either knock you into ecstasy or knock you out of the game! Drink now and for many years beyond.  (11/2017)

91 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 From quartzite soils with loess and slate and fermented in 1,200-liter oak vats, Georg Rumpf's 2016 Nahe Riesling (Münsterer) Dautenpflänzer "GG" is round, rich and juicy on the palate but also light and well structured by fine and grippy tannins. Very long finish. (SR) 91+  (2/2018)


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Varietal:

Riesling

- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.
Country:

Germany

- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.
Sub-Region:

Nahe