2015 A.J. Adam Dhron Hofberg "In der Sangerei" Riesling Feinherb Mosel

SKU #1335055 94 points Vinous

 Like this year’s Im Pfarrgarten Riesling, this wine from not far away in the Hofberg boasts a buoyant 10.5 percent alcohol and highly efficacious residual sugar that doesn’t rise to the level of overt sweetness. Beyond that, however, we have here a great example of steep slope terroir in action, generating a tension and complexity that leave not only that Pfarrgarten bottling but the full range of impressive legally dry Adam 2015s in the proverbial (pulverized slate) dust. A hauntingly complex aromatic alliance of brown-spiced as well as coolingly herb-tinged apple, orange, peach, raw pumpkin and wet stone ushers in a correspondingly multifaceted palate of silken texture, its rich fruit inflected by fruit pit and toasted nut piquancy along with the sizzle of citrus zest. The prodigious finish introduces a mouthwatering wealth of mineral elements not confined to salts, alkali and stones, but otherwise impossible to put into words. “One has to say, these grapes looked awfully good,” remarked Adam. But that’s nothing compared with how the resulting wine tastes! [David Schildnecht]  (6/2017)

K&L Notes

Importer's notes: A cadaster parcel within the Hofberg, this is becoming one of the greatest Rieslings I offer from the Mosel. This 15 is definitely fabulous; the most lavish fruit-basket face of Hofberg—spirit-kin of Oberhäuser Brücke, as I see it—it’s lavish in all ways yet also electrically spicy like mint and tarragon, yet with this wild explosion of esoteric fruit and smoky slate and chocolate-y sponti notes. For me it’s a Mosel monument. — Terry Theise

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Price: $42.99

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- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Prädikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Spätlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.


- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.