2009 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru "Champans"

SKU #1326010 94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 The 2009 Volnay Champans blossoms in every direction with black cherries, tar, smoke licorice and crushed rocks. This deep, resonant wine graced with tons of depth and gorgeous textural richness captures the best qualities of 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029. (AG)  (4/2012)

90-92 points Allen Meadows - Burghound

 A slightly riper nose features aromas of red berry liqueur, plum, cassis and iron-infused earth that can also be found on the mineral-inflected, rich and full-bodied flavors that possess more power than the Clos des Chênes but less finesse. *Outstanding*  (5/2011)

91 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

 (two-thirds of these vines are 85 years old, the other third about 25): Good bright, dark red. The nose is distinctly darker than that of the village Volnay and Clos des Chenes, offering scents of black cherry, licorice, violet, menthol and bitter chocolate. Then lush and creamy in the mouth, with an attractive high-toned quality to the pure cherry and violet flavors. Shows classic 2009 ripeness but has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes firmly tannic, chewy and long. Lafon says this one needs a decade of bottle aging. "Most people don't wait," he added. "That's why the Champans doesn't have the reputation of the Clos des Chenes or the Santenots." (ST)  (3/2012)

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Pinot Noir

- One of France's most legendary grapes and the grape that earned Burgundy its reputation. The parent of varietals like Pinot Gris/Grigio and Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir is blue to violet to indigo in color with relatively thin skins, and it is said to have been cultivated in France for more than 2,000 years. At its best, Pinot Noir creates elegant wines that are filled with primary red fruit aromas and flavors while young, revealing with an array of secondary characteristics like earth, smoke, violet, truffle and game with age. The varietal is also known, perhaps better than any, for its ability to translate terroir, or a sense of place. While the best Pinot Noir still comes from Burgundy, it is being produced with increasing success in cooler climates around the world. In France, it is part of the trifecta of grapes that can go into Champagne, and it is also grown in Alsace, Irancy, Jura, Savoie, Lorraine and Sancerre. Outside of France it is produced under the names Pinot Nero and Blauburgunder in Italy's mountainous regions, as Spätburgunder in Germany and as Blauburgunder in Austria. In the US, Pinot Noir has found suitable growing conditions in the cooler parts of California, including Carneros, the Russian River Valley, the Anderson Valley, the Sonoma Coast, Monterey County, the Santa Lucia Highlands and Santa Barbara County, as well as in Oregon's Willamette Valley. In recent years, New Zealand has demonstrated its ability to interpret this hard-to-grow varietal, with successful bottlings coming from careful and attentive growers in Central Otago, Martinborough and Canterbury. Chile is also an up-and-coming region for Pinot Noir, creating fresh, fruit-forward, early-drinking and affordable Pinots from the coastal Casablanca Valley and the Limari Valley.


- When it comes to wine, France stands alone. No other country can beat it in terms of quality and diversity. And while many of its Region, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne most obviously, produce wine as rare, as sought-after and nearly as expensive as gold, there are just as many obscurities and values to be had from little known appellations throughout the country. To learn everything there is to know about French wine would take a lifetime. To understand and appreciate French wine, one only has to begin tasting them.


- The province of eastern France, famous for its red wines produced from Pinot Noir and its whites produced from Chardonnay. (Small of amounts of Gamay and Aligoté are still grown, although these have to be labeled differently.) The most famous part of the region is known as the Côte d'Or (the Golden Slope). It is divided into the Côte de Beaune, south of the town of Beaune (famous principally for its whites), and the Côte de Nuits, North of Beaune (home of the most famous reds). In addition, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais are important wine growing regions, although historically a clear level (or more) below the Côte d'Or. Also include by some are the regions of Chablis and Auxerrois, farther north.
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- Sometimes known as the Chambolle Musigny of the Côte de Beaune, Volnay is famous for its silky, elegant wines with finesse, delicacy and an almost ethereal nose. However, the wines have a depth and structure that can allow them to age for decades. Remington Norman said it wonderfully in his book The Great Domaines of Burgundy: 'If the wines of Pommard sometimes seem like a truck-driver's interpretation of Pinot, then those of Volnay are a ballerina's.