2013 Marcel Deiss Mambourg Grand Cru Alsace (Biodynamic)

SKU #1315506 95 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 The 2013 Grand Cru Mambourg has a clear, deep, pure and complex mineral nose that is clearly dominated by the oligocene limestone of the terroir and the freshness of the vintage. This nose reminds me of a great Meursault. Full-bodied, round and rich, this is a highly complex and firmly structured, but elegant and finessed, Mambourg with a long, pure and salty finish with great grip and tension. Highly expressive and persistent, it is a great Alsatian Grand Cru, indeed. It was fermented in aged in Burgundian Allier pièces (of which 20 to 25% were new) until the bottling in September 2016. Deiss's Mambourg has been planted with 12,000 vines per hectare and the leaf wall is just one meter instead of the more common 1.80 meter height. This is to have low yields with just 14% of potential alcohol, but real (phenolic) maturity and good acidity.

95 points Vinous

 Bright, gold-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of stone fruits, mango, ginger and mint. Supple and suave on the palate, with ripe acidity framing the intense flavors of lime, pineapple, botanical herbs and crushed stone. Much less massive than usual for this wine, in a more graceful style that is impossible to resist. Did they harvest just a touch sooner than usual this year? Finishes long, with pure lemon verbena, grapefruit and peach nuances. Mathieu Deiss also finds the wine to be rather pretty: "It’s an almost unlikely Mambourg, in which an atypical lemony acidity provides lift and daintiness."

93 points Wine Spectator

 Firm and well-cut, this medium- to full-bodied Pinot Gris is aromatic, with accents of honeycomb and furniture polish on the nose and flavors of crunchy green pear, mandarin orange peel, smoky mineral and slivered almond on the palate. Presents a lasting, saline-tinged finish. Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot. Drink now through 2028.

K&L Notes

Winemaker's Notes: "Clear and limpid robe, deep and thick. Before aeration, the first nose is quite vinous and discrete with yellow fruit and fresh bread. After aeration, the nose becomes brighter and more powerful, even "drier," with, as always, limestone brightness, vanilla, noble wood, leather and orange peel, allusions to Oligocene. The palate is voluminous but tense, with flamboyant acidity and richness, long and powerful, totally dry, robust, strong as a fortress, an oppidum above the plains. On the finish, vibrant lemon fruit, and at the very end, a lightning strike of salivant limestone acidity. Dominant Sigolsheim, the Mambourg is the most precocious hillside among the vineyards. Known since the Middle Ages, many monasteries and lords had owned this land and gave it their credentials. Beneficing from a maximum duration of sunshine, its magnesium soil grows on the conglomerated limestone and marl hills of Tertiary Era. This particular geology from Quaternary Oligocene limestone grants Mambourg a very rare characteristic: powerful tannins always presented and a round smooth in the palate. Our low-trained vines, planted with all the Pinots in an intensity of 12,700 vine/hectare, produce between 15 and 20 hl / ha: wines are always perfectly dry with an exaggerated power and an extreme complexity."

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