2013 Bernhard Ott "Der Ott" Grüner Veltliner Wagram (Biodynamic)

SKU #1293400 91 points Vinous

 As usual, this bottling is informed largely by younger vines in Ott’s three top sites. A faintly cider-like spicy and tangy expression of apple is already evident in the nose, along with peony-like musky floral perfume and ocean spray. Subtly caramelized parsnip joins apple on the palate for a fascinating and by no means inharmonious interchange of sweet and pungent, fruit and root vegetable flavors. While less nuanced and enticing today than the corresponding Fass 4 bottling, this offers a striking combination of richness with buoyancy (at 12.8% alcohol) and refreshment, finishing with sustained stimulating complexity. (DS)  (11/2015)

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Price: $29.99
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Staff Image By: Mahon McGrath | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 3/31/2017 | Send Email
While the texture is voluptuous and creamy, the palate is dominated not by fruit, but warm spice and Gruner Veltliners's characteristic pepperiness. There's none of the herby-vegetal side of varietal, though, and fruit doesn't take center stage.

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Gruner Veltliner

- Grüner Veltliner is the most widely planted grape variety in Austria, making up about a third of all the vineyard land in the country, according to importer extraordinaire Terry Thiese. The varietal has definitely increased in popularity of the past few years, as sommeliers and wine directors loaded their lists with this spicy white because it pairs well with so many things. Its bouquet has been described as floral, tending to toward musky, with hints of peppery greens, lentils, citrus and red fruit with a distinctive mineral quality. In the mouth the wine can be broad or precise, but is almost always distinguished by bracing acidity and flavors that mirror the nose. A notoriously good ager, you can drink GrüVes in their youth, or let them evolve in complexity in your cellar.


- Austria is a well-respected wine-growing region in Europe. Yet, even though they make about a third the volume of wine as Germany, not many of these fine bottles make it to the shelves of American wine merchants or restaurants. Lucky for us, their anonymity has translated into incredible value from simple, everyday whites to exquisite dessert wines. Austria shares many grape varieties with Germany—Riesling is king here, too. But the style of Austrian whites is much dryer and more potent. Grüner Veltliner is Austria's second-most-important varietal and makes whites of great versatility and pleasure.