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1995 Frei Joao "Poco do Lobo" Vinho Regional Beiras

SKU #1193969 93 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 The Arinto "Poço do Lobo" is actually a current item, available from the importer. Arinto ages well and the terroir, not far from the ocean, typically provides good acidity. So, this region does have a reputation for aging well in all colors. This is lovely. To be sure, it is fully mature--and wonderfully complex. It is not going to taste fresh or fruity or perky. But if there is any oxidation, it isn't much. This has a fine core of acidity to still provide tension on the finish. It is surprisingly lively and relatively solid in the mid-palate. It awakens and actually seemed a bit fresher with air and warmth, with some notes of dried pear. It is not at all sweet, but its harmony makes it great to drink on its own. Or, it will go well with any number of restrained fish dishes and gentle, fatty foods. I came back to this another six or so hours later. It showed more mushroom and truffle, but its acidity was still fine and the wine was still great. It actually once again got fresher with air and warmth. How much longer does it have? That is always a fine question for wines that probably have already exceeded many peoples' guesses by a lot. At a certain point, it becomes about the bottle. It still seems to have plenty of time left, but let's exercise a little caution and take that in stages. By the way, the price for something this old and this good is exceptional. If it said "Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru" instead of Beiras, that likely wouldn't be the case. (MS)  (4/2016)

K&L Notes

A wine produced from Arinto, Bical and a few other grapes, this long aged, traditional Portuguese white brings to mind the waxy, yellow fruited, beautifully nuanced and detailed whites of Spain's Lopez de Heredia. The cellar at Frei Joao is similarly sized and nearly as old school, so if you're looking for a delicious, representative, old fashioned Portuguese white, or a more affordable version of the Viña Tondonia Blanco, this is your wine! (Joe Manekin, K&L Portuguese wine buyer)


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Price: $34.99
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Staff Image By: Joe Manekin | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 4/2/2015 | Send Email
The Lopez de Heredia whites of Portugal? While we are not yet intimately familiar with this Portuguese producer, we did have the opportunity to taste this white, produced from 100% Arinto grapes, and were impressed by how well it has aged. With a similar bright citric acidity and old time gracefulness to the texture, this is something that we are very excited about.

Additional Information:

Varietal:

Other White Wines

Country:

Portugal

- Although quite small, Portugal produces a great variety of wines ranging from light and fizzy Vinho Verde to hearty and tannic Port. Portugal is Europe's fourth-largest wine-producing region, and has been exporting its wine since the 14th century. The Douro Valley of Portugal is the original and current home for the world's finest Port. The valley spans from east of the city of Oporto all the way to the border of Spain and is the country's best known wine region. Lesser-appreciated DOCs like Bairrada and Dão area also emerging for their fine, rustic reds.