One of the last vintages for Fekete Béla, who’s approaching 90 years old, this is as striking as Somló itself, a mound of volcanic soil rising out of the ocean that once covered it. The wine is monolithic, a liquid stone, the acidity carving deep and fast channels through that stony flavor. There’s really no fruit to speak of; instead, there’s earth, deep, profound and lasting. Decant before serving, and have something rich on hand, like smoked fish. (6/2014)
Somló: Wines of the Volcano Gods - Fekete Béla is 'The Grand Old Man' of Somló. To know his wines is to know Somló. His wines are honest, engaging and highly expressive of the region. Juhfark (Sheep’s Tail in English) is a distinctive, almost extinct white grape variety found almost exclusively in Somló. It is high in acidity and age well. The wine is a fascinating array of dried fruit and honey on the nose and high floral aromas on the palate.
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