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2004 Philipponnat "Clos de Goisses" Brut Champagne

SKU #1142127 97 points Vinous

Outer quote mark The 2004 Clos des Goisses is dense and powerful in the glass, with all of the pure, unbridled energy that has always been such a signature here. Hints of lemon peel, mint, spice and crushed rocks emerge with time in the glass, but, despite its considerable beauty and unquestioned pedigree, the 2004 is frankly years away from delivering the full Clos des Goisses experience. Disgorged February 2013. (AG) Inner quote mark (3/2015)

96 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

Outer quote mark From their iconic steep, south-facing, riverside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay - acquired in 1935 - Philipponnat's strikingly beautiful 2004 Brut Clos des Goisses betrays no suggestion of alcoholic weight or opacity such as one might associate with an especially warm, fast-ripening vineyard. On the contrary, this is a bottling that combines silken feel with delicacy, refreshment, and utmost transparency to nuance. Chamomile, mint and lily-of-the-valley don't just turn heads from the rim of the glass; they waft through this wine's entire palate performance, against a greenhouse-like background of diverse if elusive flowering and leafing things. Salivary gland-tugging salinity and hints of chalk suffuse a fruit matrix of white peach, lime, red raspberry and red currant whose juicy, subtly crunchy expressions put me a bit in mind of certain supreme Nahe Rieslings. This site's reflection in the Marne River is itself iconic, but its reflection in your glass will prove kaleidoscopically spellbinding. That effect persisted during the four days I had the pleasure of following this 2004, and I suspect that subsequent bottles will prove worth following for at least a decade. (DS) Inner quote mark (11/2013)

95 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar

Outer quote mark Vivid yellow. Heady, mineral-driven scents of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, white flowers, anise and iodine, with toasty lees and herbal notes coming up with air. Densely packed Meyer lemon and bitter pear skin flavors become sweeter with air and show excellent focus. The smoke and floral qualities come back on the mineral-dominated finish, which lingers with outstanding tenacity. I'll bet that this superbly balanced Champagne will reward many years of cellaring. Inner quote mark (12/2013)

Jancis Robinson

Outer quote mark This was the star. It was wonderfully rich and explosive with hints of smoke, orange peel and quince. Wonderfully tense and pungent with beautiful build and persistence - and much held in reserve. For three of us, including the organiser of the tasting, it was the best. It's just a shame that it is no longer an insider's wine and the price is now a match for other de luxe champagnes. 19/20 points. Inner quote mark (7/2014)

K&L Notes

This vintage Champagne from Philipponnat comes from a 5.5-hectare walled, hillside vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay called Clos des Goisses. This Champagne's dosage, at just four grams per liter, is incredibly low, allowing the mineral intensity the vineyard imparts to shine through. Full-bodied, with an incredibly long finish, this is an age-worthy vintage Champagne that would be a wonderful addition to any cellar.


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Price: $219.99
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