1998 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) "Cuvée Centenaire" Châteauneuf-du-Pape

SKU #1073432 98 points Jeb Dunnuck

 Still a pup in terms of development, the otherworldly 1998 Les Cailloux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Centenaire is still borderline primary and unevolved on the nose, yielding staggering levels of licorice-laced blackberry fruit that’s supported by new leather, flowers, spice, and garrigue notes that just come leaping from the glass. It slowly unwinds over the evening, showing fantastic underlying complexity that struggles to compete with the crazy fruit in the wine. Full bodied and brilliant on the palate as well, carrying a seamless, decadent texture, amazing focus and precision, and a blockbuster finish, this is certainly on par with the ’90, and needs another 3-5 years to show at its best. Absolutely stunning.  (3/2011)

97 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 Happily, the last two bottles of 1998 Cuvee Centenaire from my cellar were representative of the score that has been bestowed above. Dense plum/garnet to the rim, with an extraordinary nose of creme de cassis, blackberry, licorice, camphor, new saddle leather, and scorched earth, the wine is full-bodied, opulent, rich, very pure, and from sound bottles, a great Cuvee Centenaire that comes close to rivaling the perfect 1990. This wine should drink well for another decade or more. (RP)  (6/2010)

95-97 points Vinous

 Bright saturated ruby-red. Like a fruit essence on the nose: crushed cherry and currant complicated by violet and rose petal perfume. Boasts an almost uncanny old-viney creaminess of texture, but the superripe, almost jammy flavors are perfectly framed by ripe acidity. Note of bitter chocolate. The Mourvedre gives this wine superb grip, with the big but sophisticated tannins reaching the front teeth. (ST)  (1/2001)

96 points Wine Spectator

 Dark, brooding aromas of fig compote and a spiced Port reduction unfurl from the glass, leading to a rich, velvety palate that shows notes of plum sauce, braised chestnut, macerated boysenberry, bittersweet chocolate ganache and dark rum-soaked prune. There's powerful structure, but the layers of exotic fruit just absorb it all. A very impressive showing. (JM)  (9/2007)

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Price: $179.99
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