2007 Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Spätlese

SKU #1043386 96 points John Gilman

 At this point in the tour de force of Spätlesen in the Dönnhoff cellars this year, I was beginning to run out of superlatives, but the 2007 Brücke Spätlese managed to take everything up another notch in quality. The bouquet today is a tad less flamboyant than the last couple of wines, as it offers up a very precise and coolly reserved nose of grapefruit, apple, slate, petrol, bee pollen, wild yeasts and lemon zest. On the palate the wine is medium-full, tight and sleek, with a rock solid core of fruit, great tensile acidity, brilliant delineation and soil inflection and stunning length and grip on the very, very racy and still very primary finish. The last two Spätlesen seemed almost endless on the finish, but the 2007 Brücke Spätlese is noticeably longer, and in the fullness of time will apogee at an even higher level. Brilliant juice. (Drink between 2014-2045)  (3/2008)

94 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

 Lemon, grapefruit, red raspberry and persimmon rise from the glass of 2007 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spätlese, whose palate dynamics seem like chamber music after the thundering, orchestral Kupfergrube. Saline and wet stone mineral notes as well as deep, malty, nut oil richness compliment the berry and citrus and the finish here is simply ravishingly intricate. Look for 20 or more years of fascination. (DS)  (10/2009)

93 points Vinous

 Subtle aromas of lichee, lemon oil and smoked pine nuts. Rich tropical fruits with a hint of smoke and an intriguing piquancy on the palate. A subtle acidity gives the sweet, spicy finish a rather feminine aspect. Very nicely balanced. (JBP)  (1/2009)

92 points Wine Spectator

 An elegant, playful white, with grapefruit, apricot, vanilla and mineral flavors dancing across the palate. Fine intensity and a lingering finish. (BS, Web Only-2009)

Jancis Robinson

 Some oily spice at first, touch of linseed. Rich, deep but a real lightness of touch to a dancing finish. (JH) 18/20 points  (7/2008)

K&L Notes

92 points Mosel Fine Wines: "AP: 07 08. This still proves rather backward and only gradually reveals a ripe and fruit-driven aromatic profile with pear and mirabelle. The wine is delicately rich and quite suave on the intense palate as pineapple and coconut join the party. This all leads to a nicely complex feel of ripe fruits, dried herbs, honey and smoky minerals in the silky and smooth finish. Drinking window: now-2032."

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- While the rest of the world has often misappropriated the name--Welchriesling, Riesling Italico, Gray Riesling and Emerald Riesling are all names applied to varieties that are NOT Riesling--this exceptional German varietal has managed to maintain its identity. Perhaps its biggest claims to fame are its intoxicating perfume, often described as having honeyed stone fruit, herb, apple and citrus notes, and its incredible longevity - the wines lasting for decades. Aged Rieslings often take on a distinctive and alluring Petrol-like aroma. Within Germany, the grape seems to do best in the warming slate soils of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. Other German regions that turn out great Rieslings include Pfalz, Rheingau and Nahe. German Rieslings are made in a range of ripeness levels. The top wines are assigned Pr├Ądikat levels to describe their ripeness at harvest. These are: Kabinett, Sp├Ątlese, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Eiswein and Trockenbeerenauslese. Riesling has also achieved acclaim in France's Alsace, the only region in that country where the grape is officially permitted. Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry and wonderfully aromatic. Austrian Riesling is also steadily gaining praise and fine Riesling is also produced in Italy's Alto-Adige and Friuli, in Slovenia and much of Central and Eastern Europe. In the New World its stronghold is Australia, where it does best in the Eden and Clare Valleys. It is also planted in smaller amounts in New Zealand. In the US, winemakers are eschewing the syrupy sweet versions of the 1970s and 1980s, instead making elegant and balanced wines in both California and Washington State.


- Thanks to a recent string of excellent vintages and to the reemergence of Germany onto the international wine writing scene, this is a country that's hot, hot, hot! Germany is divided into 13 wine Region and produces a very wide variety of wine styles, from incredibly high-acid, dry wines to some of the sweetest, most unctuous concoctions on the planet and even a few surprisingly hearty reds. Most of the highest-quality wines are grown on steep banks along the rivers in these Region. Small vineyards are still mostly hand tended and picked, due to the difficult nature of mechanization on these slopes. White wine production accounts for nearly 80% of the total with Riesling being the most important varietal, though Muller-Thurgau is still more widely planted.